Middle Tor SX669859 (near Kes Tor)
Tucked away from the main bouldering areas, this small venue was developed over 2001 and is now home to a handful of problems on it's only feature - a low level roof adorned with incut flaky holds. The best problem here is no.1, a fine traverse. Be careful with some of the flakes!
1. 5c V2 **. Start on lowest good hold on rightand traverse left along obvious holds to finish up short crack in centre of roof. Good crystals to top out.
2. 6a V3/4 Extended start to 1. Starting about 10ft further right on the right hand end of sloping shelf, covered in bomber crystals. Easier if you have large feet and can toe cam/heel hook the crack.
3. 6b V5? Extended finish to either 1 or two. Starting up 1 or 2 continue past the short crack and traverse until you can pull onto the easy slab at the far left hand end.
4. 5c V2 * Start on the lowest slopey holds at the back of the roof, just left of the start of No1. Go direct over the roof to a good crystal on the top slopey ledge. Reach or lunge up left to top (which has been cleaned) and pull up over.
5. 6b V5 * Start at back of roof on two smallish crimps (to the left of the short crack) and go direct using other small crimps on the way. No crack allowed at this grade
There are also a number of eliminates and link-ups.
Left: Middle Tor
Many thanks to Jason Maddick for supplying details and the photo for this crag!
Thanks to Boreal for supporting the site!
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