Bell Tor (SX 731778)
Adjacent to Bonehill, this is a very worthwhile venue, home to some superb problems and no way near as busy as it's more lauded neighbour. Famous Grouse V6 6c is one of the classic harder problems on The Moor and the other, more amenable problems are also very good. There is one drawback - many of the problems are quite high and some have very poor landings (marked with an X). A mat will prove useful, as will large cojones (or female equivalent).
Approach: Leave the A38 at Drumbridges Roundabout, signed for Bovey Tracey. Take the Bovey exit then drive for 1 mile ish to another roundabout. Take the 2nd exit (signed Lustleigh) and carry on to another roundabout (1km). Turn left here and take the left fork, signedWidecombe/Haytor. Continue on this road for several miles, passing Haytor and Saddle Tor on the right.
After passing a left turn for Ashburton, take the next right and then take the first left (where the ain road goes right). Pass Bonehill on the left then park on left opposite a track).
Start off along this then after about 70 metres take a path that leads up and R to the obvious Tor. Head to the bottom L side of the Tor where a large break, topped by an overhang is the most obvious feature. The obvious alcove to the R is home to problems 12-15. 5 minute walk-in.
Haytor Area Map
1 4c Wall right of arete.
2 V1 5c arete direct.
3 V2 6a eliminate up left side of arete, not using boulder to start.
4 V3 6a L to R low traverse to finish up 2.
5 4c crack through roof.
6 V4 6b eliminate to the left.
7 V0+ 5b via jug on left of roof.
8 2c slab.
9 5a left hand side of slab, not using crack to the right.
10 4b left crack.
11 Chicken Head V1 5c X From jug rail stretch up to chicken head, then gain slab above. Nice landing!!
Note: To the right of Chicken Head is a block with an impressive arete. The narrow front face (i.e. right of arete) is about V5 and good. Around the back are a couple of worthwhile problems:
V3 6a sitting start up wide crack then traverse rightwards around corner and along slopey break (beneath the top) to top out at the end (see photo).
V5 6b The arete to the right of the wide crack from sitting.
12 4c Pleasant slabby wall.
13 Beau Wall V3/4 6a/b crack/runnel to break then long reach to the top. Mat useful and height dependent. Note: Retro named as it deserves a title!
14 Famous Grouse V6 6c The obvious rounded jobby. Step onto the easy slab and up a slim groove above. A move up this leads to the left hand end of the break. Reach up and left to a poor crystal, right hand up then tasty move to top.
Hard Candy V5 6b The steep line in the alcove left of Famous Grouse. Sit start and hard pull to gain better holds above.
15 V4/5 6b Arete/prow using holds on both sides.
16 V2 6a Open groove using large crystal to gain jugs.
17 V1 5c X Left-facing groove.
18 V0 5a Very fine slab down to left.
19 V0 5a X flakes around roof.
20 Bell End V4 6b X Very bold pull through the middle (ish) of the roof to gain the top slab above. Don't fall off.
21 V2 6a Left arete is gained from the crack on the left. A bit sketchy to gain the arete then there's a pleasant surprise. Dangerous!
22 5b The dirty crack to the left.
23 V0- 5a X Traverse right along obvious exposed shelf to gain ledge. The crux is keeping your feet on - photogenic and exposed.
24 V0- 4c X Traverse beneath 23 to same finish.
25 V3/4 6b The right hand side of the innocuous-looking arete.
26 V0 5a Fine, short arete with downward pointing spike.
27 5a Left arete.
28 5a Start up 26, traverse R along top break then mantel jug on R arete to finish.
Many more problems can be found around the summit block and rest of the Tor...
For those into walking and exploring carry on to the top of the hill, onto a large cairn. Down to the left of this is Chinkwell Tor, home to a few fine routes (on the obvious high wall) and also some boulder problems:
1 V2 5c Porkfat Traverse The excellent low R to L traverse along the bottom of the Tor starting at the sloping slab around to the R. Pat yourself on the back if you can get back along the traverse to the start without falling off.
2 5a Wide... The first section of Widecombe Wall then scamper off L along the break.
The next Tor along is Honeybag Tor, home to a good spread of problems.
Thanks to Boreal for supporting the site!
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