Gwynver Bouldering Guide
This area has been developed recently by a strong German team. It provides a good selection of problems and is a lovely spot by the sea. The only drawback is the landings - a minimum of two mats will be required unless you are extremely brave!
See map at bottom of page!
Walk down the steps to Gwynver beach (the beach just North of Sennen Beach) and turn right!
Problems 1-7 are gained by walking across the boulder beach - problems beyond that (on the headland and beyond - Aire Point) are most expediently gained by walking along the path above the boulder beach then dropping down.
Tides and conditions: A visit is best timed around low-mid tide. Swell will affect several of the areas and sea-spray can make conditions greasy.
1 Font 7a+ (6b) Sit down start to hanging arete thing.
2 Project - with no real holds and a bad landing
3 Font 6a (5c) Rounded arete - high and with a bad landing.
4 Font 6a+/6c Blunt edge
5 Font 6a+ (5c) Mantle
6 Font 6b+ (6a) Right to left traverse
7 Font 6a (5b) Left to right traverse
8 Dental Fracture Font 7a+ Right to left traverse from sit start.
9 Fracture Font 6c A sit start to the blunt edge
10 Font 4 (4c) Crack
11 Aire Point Slab Font 7a
12 Paresis slab Font 7a+
13 Font 6c+ Slab
14 Font 6a Crack
15 Font 6a Slab
16 Font 6a Edge
A few hundred yards north is a 35 high foot wall. The following problems are found on this and finish at the first main break (about 12 ft up):
17 Font 6a slab
18 Font 6a/7a+ edge
19 Font 7a/7b Cream Tea edge
20 Font 6a slab
21 Font 6a slab
22 Font 6b slab
Around the left end of the wall is an overhang in an alcove:
23 Double beach bed Font 7c+ Start from rear through the roof. Tends to seep and the landing's not too good.
The next problem is found on a scary slab:
24 SOS Font 7a The climbing's not too hard but it's a bit scary!!
Immediately left is:
Is identified by a roof on the left and high slab on the right:
25 Mississippi Burning Font 6c The wall direct.
26 Mississippi Font 6b Wall and left.
27 Swan Font 7a+/7b+ The blunt edge.
28 Font 7a+ Start as for Swan and reach Low water
29 Low water 6b+/6c+ Precarious mantle finsh after some fun steep climbing.
On the boulder above the Snail:
30 Pea Font 7c A sit down start with feet on base.
20 ft over to the right is a boulder above a trench:
31 Evil Weasel Font 7a+ Starting on obvious rail. Feet on block only! An unusual super low start comes in from beneath on the left at 7c+.
32 Font 6a Sit down start
34 Font 6b edge
35 Font 6a Rib
36 Font 5 The crystal vein
37 Mr. Wonder I Font 7a/7b The roof.
38 Mr. Wonder II project Starting as for 37 then move left
39 Font 5 Right to left traverse
40 6b/7a The edge
41 Nanjulian wall Font 7b+
42 Font 6a/6b Edge
43 Last Try Font 7a+ The wall
Thanks to Boreal for supporting the site!
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