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Chudleigh Tree Choppage (9 June 2009)
The dead tree that was hanging from the crag on Brer Fox (just left of the top of Tar Baby) has now been removed. There are a couple of dangerous-looking blocks in the area that require care although they withstood a vigorous "stamp test".For further info. on Chudleigh please check the guide and Full details on the state of in-situ gear at Chudleigh
Torbryan Rubbish (9 June 2009)
The local Teignbridge Council ranger has recently put a sign up at Torbryan politely stating that a minority of climbers have been leaving litter at the crag. Whilst the majority of rubbish found at the crag (beer cans and drinks bottles) appears to have been thrown off the top (presumably by the local scallywag youths) there is no doubt a very small amount of rubbish has been left by climbers around the base of the crag. Please ensure you don't drop finger tape and fag ends and also consider taking a rubbish bag with you to remove other rubbish from the area.
Cheesewring Re-gearing (7 June 2009)
Inland Cornwall's premier crag has seen a lot of attention of late with a gang of keen locals getting together to carry out the much needed work of replacing old fixed gear at the crag. The crag is home to a large range of quality routes, many of which are reliant on in-situ gear. Hopefully the recent cleaning and re-gearing will lead to a resurgence in popularity of this excellent crag. Andy Steinberg reports:" The plan is to re-bolt all the sports routes and replace dodgy pegs on the trad routes and have a good clean up. There are also a few routes that relied solely on pegs, some of these will be bolted.
...the bolting is being carried out in a responsible and sensitive fasion with due regard for the history of the place and after consultation with the first ascensionist and other interested parties. The aim is to re-equip the sport routes properly without affecting other, more adventurous routes.".
Marty Hallet on High Noon E2 Photo. Mark Glaister
So far the work has been funded by Andy Steinberg, Andy Grieve, Richard Hudson, Richard Pollard, and Barney Carver. More bolts are on order and if anyone would like to make a donation please email andrewsteinberg @ btinternet.com. Any feedback on the work should also be emailed to Andy.
Here is a list of what has been done so far
Double Agent F7a bolted (previously relied on pegs)
Agent Provocoteur F7a+ bolted (previously relied on pegs)
Potential Energy F6c+ bolted (previously relied on pegs)
West Point F6b re-bolted
Feline Adventures F6b+ re-bolted
Tag F7b re-bolted
Crucifier F7a re-bolted (previously relied on pegs and bolts)
Half Man Half Biscuit E3 6a (1 bolt replaces stolen peg)
Debutante E3 6a (1 bolt replaces peg)
Warrior F6c re-bolted
Friend or Foe F7a+ re-bolted
Gone to Pot F6c+ bolted (previously relied on pegs removed after 1st ascent)
Psychokiller E6 6c Fr 7c+Please note that information on the condition of routes and what gets bolted will now be updated on the Cheesewring and South East Cornwall route info page.
More Chudleigh Updates (1 June 2009)
Parking - problems are starting to emerge as climbers have been parking in The Rock Centre (the outdoor pursuits centre by the North Face) instead of the traditional parking by the kissing gate in Rock Road. Please stick with the parking in Rock Road (avoiding the section beyond the kissing gate where there is a No Parking sign).Gear: The peg on Twang has now gone. Grade remains E1. I have added a page with full details on the state of in-situ gear at Chudleigh. Please send in any appropriate updates on Chudleigh in-situ gear (including any that has been replaced or needs replacing).
Also note that there is currently a fallen tree to the left of the top of Tar Baby - this is probably holding in some loose rock and likely to be a little dangerous. Take care! It will be removed pretty soon!
The Climbing Academy Events (2 February 2009)
The fantastic new Bristol bouldering wall is hosting a series of events over the next couple of months:
Saturday 21st February - Women's Only Bouldering. 6.30pm to 9.30pm
Thursday 26th February - Chris Sharma Lecture (book early to avoid disappointment!).
Saturday 28th February - Bouldering Competition. Starts at 1.00pm. Party in the evening.
Wednesday 4th March - Neil Gresham offering top tips between 3.00pm and 9.00pm.
Saturday 14th March - Women's Only Bouldering. 6.30pm to 9.30pm
Sunday 15th March - Jerry Moffatt Lecture.
Saturday 21st March - Bouldering Competition. Starts at 1.00pmFor further details please visit www.theclimbingacademy.com
Please send in any climbing news - South West or further afield.
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