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HAYTOR AREA FIRST ASCENTS

40's | 50's | 60's | 70's | 80's | 90's | 00's!


 

1940's
Aramis
Tony Moulam 18/5/46

1950's
Raven's Gully
Tony Moulam 1951 Direct Finish 1950's
Canis
Tony Moulam 8/1/52
North Face Chimney
1954 Jack Denton
Letterbox Wall 18/9/55 Jack Denton
Ann Geoff and Ann Sutton 10/55
Honeymoon Corner Geoff and Ann Sutton 11/55
Vandal Tom Patey 7/59 Mr Patey was based at Lympstone Marine Barracks for a while, during which time he left his mark across Devon with a number of impressive routes. Those of you interested in this man's expoits should read One Man's Mountains, his autobiography. Vandal is now combined with Ann of a few years previous to give the route Vandal and Ann!

The following routes were all climbed by numerous parties during the 50's and exact first ascents are unknown. Some were almost certainly done prior to the 50's

Step Across 1950's
Bridle Piton Slab 1950's
Central Chimney 1950's
East Chimney 1950's
Grey Mare's Groove 1950's
Cobleigh's Chimney 1950's
Athos 1950's
Bulging Wall 1950's
Zig Zag 1950's
Nameless 1950's
Capstan 1950's

1960's
Outward Bound
Tom Patey 30/6/60
Aviation
Dave Bassett, Harry Cornish 1961
Hangover Joe Barry 1961
Haggis Robin Shaw 1961
Interrogation The route originally started up Raven's Gully then stepped right to the break (level with peg 2 at 30 ft) Frank Cannings, Pete Badcock (Aid) 21/8/64 . Pat Littlejohn, in 1971 added the Direct Start with 1 pt aid on the crux - this is now the normal start and has dropped the "direct" from the title. In 1980 this was freed by Mick Fowler. Pitch 1 was soloed on 27/4/96.
Low Man Girdle
Frank Cannings, Pete Badcock (1 pt aid) 25/10/64 This was freed in 1980 by Mick Fowler.
Raven's Wing
Frank Canning, Pete Biven 18/3/67. A direct start was added by Jon Gandy 1988
Levitation
Andy Powling, Pat Littlejohn 4/67
Rhinoceros
Jim Collins 6/68 Pitch 1 - known as Avaition direct at the time. The second pitch was added by Pat Littlejohn on 14/5/71 who gave it the name.
Levitation Direct Pat Littlejohn, Steve Jones 1968

1970's
Screw
Ed Grindley, John Fowler 1970
The Flier
Pat Littlejohn 1/5/71
D'Artagnan
Pat Littlejohn (solo) 1976
Igneous Pig
Steve Bell, J. Grubb 1979 The (desperate!) lefthand finish was added by pupil/lecturer combo Nick White and Steve Thorpe 1984
Rough Diamond Pat Littlejohn, Pete O Sullivan 1979

1980's
Don't Stop Now Paul Dawson 1980 He also made the FA of the now classic Dockers Dilemma E5 over at Vixen Tor in the same year.
Dehydration Bruce Woodley, Keith Philips 7/82
Le Dernier Cri
Bruce Woodley, Alistair Whyte, Martin Parry 9/83 Some jiggery pokery was involved - including long slings hanging off a peg and a dyno for a tree route. 2 peg runners were used. The route was soloed by Dave Ferguson in 2002 - this peg free ascent bumped the grade up to E6 6a.
Rough Justice
Pete Bull (unseconded) 4/10/83 After Top rope inspection. The original lead of this was an extremely bold effort as the peg that protected it is said to have "blown away in a strong wind" aftern the first ascent! The peg that is now there is better but still not ideal although can be backed up with a wire just below (this was discovered post first ascent!). The route is still rarely onsighted. Soloed on 27/4/96 by Dave Henderson.
Diamond Sky Pete Bull (solo) '83
Direct Justice Kit Wilkinson (unseconded) 1984
Blood Lust Nick Hancock1985 After numerous failed attempts by top climbers of the time, all of which went home with identical hand puncture marks! ... Apparently the Plymouth Crew (Ken Palmer, Andy Grieve and Nick Hancock) were all trying it together the same day but all failed .. at the end of the day they made vague arrangements to return... the next morning Ken turned up with another sneaky belayer, intending to sneak in for the first ascent only to be greated by the sight of Nick having already succeeded!!
Glass Bead Game
Chris Nicholson, Mark Courtier 8/5/85 According to Chris this route was a major contribution to road safety! Pete Bull took a decent fall from high up during a repeat ascent!
Rock Lobster Kit Wilkinson, Pete Bull, Ken Wallis 9/3/85
Accomplice to Murder
D. Hughes, D.Wyrwoll 21/9/86
Interrogation Superdirect
Nick White, Andy Tuner 25/5/87 This now incorporates the "Super duper direct" - a direct start by Mark Edwards climbed in 1990

1990's
Frog's Failure
Jon Gandy 9/92
Lost World Martin Perry (unseconded) 13/7/94 Just missed the Nick White guide!
Die Laughing Jon Gaskins 1994 ... yep, THE Jon Gaskins!
Timmy Tortoise Dave Henderson (onsight solo) 6/95
Obscured By Clouds Dave Henderson 22/8/95 Abseil inspection then worked ground up with several falls onto RP's.
Oh Dude Dave Ferguson (solo) Summer '97 Soloed ground up. Now reckoned to be an excellent high ball boulder problem with some mats!
Rough N Ready Dave Henderson, Anthony Snow 30/5/98 After top rope inspection.The hardest route on Haytor. Repeated shortly after by Simon Young in the same style. Awaits an onsight ... but send someone down with a wire brush first!
Little Fish eats Big Fish
Simon Young, Dave Henderson (both led) 7/98
Bermuda Bill Simon Young 9/98
Double Bubble FA Martin Perry 1998
Thursdays Child Simon Young 1998
This was originally climbed with some utterly desperate moves to gain and pass the initial break (the undercut hadn't been noticed - this not only made the climbing technically hard but also made it much bolder as the gear couldn't be arranged before moving up into the break.
The Legend of Pip Dave Henderson (onsight solo) Spring '99
BoBo Simon Young 27/3/99
Dogon Simon Young 27/3/99
Bobangi Simon Young (solo) 29/3/99 After Top rope inspection prior to the ascent. The ascent was made more exciting when a crystal broke under Simon's hand! Repeated the following week by Dave Henderson (solo)
Tsutsi Dave Henderson 11/4/99 Abseil inspection then tried "ground up"... lichen and grit further up eventually thwarted these attempts so a quick look at the top moves (and clean) on a top rope made things a little easier.
Straight No Chaser Dave Henderson 17/4/99 Top roped first. Now a highball boulder problem but originally graded E6 thinking a fall would be more serious! Mats very handy!
Gems in a Granite Setting Dave Henderson 18/4/99 Top roped first. Has proved relatively popular with repeats from Simon Young, Ken Palmer and maybe others.
Dead Sheep Crack Dave Ferguson 18/4/99
Hutu Craig Williams (onsight solo) 4/99
Funky Gibbon
Simon Young 4/99
Crusty Simon Young 4/99
Angin' Wiv Me Bitches
Caedmon Mullin (onsight solo) Summer '99
Sausage Lossage
Dave Ferguson (onsight solo) Summer '99
The Camel
Simon Young Summer '99 After top rope practice and with pre-placed RP's. Unrepeated.

00's!
Kaolin Dave Henderson (belayed by Mike Pearce) 2000. After top rope inspection; 2nd ascent by Simon Young using pre-placed RP's. Also repeated by Rob Lisney.
Koala Simon Young 2000
Shacked Up 2002

Levi FA Brian Hannon, Rik Meek, Pete O'Sullivan, Martin Dunning - 29/09/02

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This file last modified
6 March, 2013.

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