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CHEESEWRING AND S.E. CORNWALL
Guidebook: Cheeswring and S.E. Cornwall Author: Sean Hawken Publisher: St. Ives Publishing Company
Trewortha Tor
Hawks Tor
Kilmar Tor
Carbilly Tor
Rough Tor
Helman Tor
Luxulyan
Roche Rock
Cheesewring Quarry
Gold Diggings Quarry
Lantic Bay
Dodman Point
Gamas Point
Trewortha Tor
This Tor only has one route in the Cheesewring and SE Cornwall guide - this situation has been dealt with! As mentioned in said guide there is also some smart bouldering. The climbing has it's own special style! Please note: Several other new lines have been climbed here - details should be here soon!
Merlin E6/7 6b (*** honest guvna!) #
A tough line with very unusual climbing, which is also a little dangerous. It takes a line up the right side of the left arete of the Just Good Friends wall. Large Friends essential. 35ft Start up a short crack on the left, to gain the first rounded break. Arrange gear then move out and stretch up to some slopers (the lower half of the next break). Struggle precariously into the next break and place big cams. The technical crux remains - make your way out of the break, get stood up on undercuts and stretch for a very rounded finish.FA Dave Henderson (belayed by Carrie Hill) May 2000 photoBath With A Friend E3 6a #
The wall to the right of Just Good Friends. FA Ben Rowe (Ben has since soloed this)Stairway to Devon HS 4b #
30 ft Walk back along the ridge from Just Good Friends for about thirty feet? A small butress presents itself. At the foot of the butress is a small pinnacle of rock. Above this is an obvious ledge. The climb starts at the right hand end of the ledge. gain the ledge and walk along ot to the base of the blunt arete. Ascend the arete to a good ledge and thread belays. FA Richard Hudson and Andy Grieve. 9.9.07Mentalshelf VS 4c #
25ft Continue walking away from Just Good Friends for 100 yards(?) in a Westerly direction staying on the crest of the ridge. A compact, isolated butress with a series of flakes on its left hand side faces the sewerage(?)works. FA Richard Hudson and Richard Pollard. 6.10.074b or not 4b VS 4c #
20ft Between Just Good Friends and Mentalshelf but on the South of the ridge is a small butress...very small. Climb up the right hand side, arrange gear in the break, shuffle along the ledge to the left hand side. Trust your feet on smears and head for the top. We decided that treating this as a boulder problem might be safer! FA Richard Hudson and Richard Pollard. 3.11.07Just Good Friends is hard for it's VS 5a grade - HVS 5b has been suggested. Also, if the line line is finished direct we may be looking at E1!
Trewellard E5 6b #
30ft Is found at the other end of the "Tor"/ridge. If approaching from the Just Good Friends end, down to the right (ie. on the west side), just beyond a wall (man-made - not climbing!!) is a buttress with a couple of breaks and a horrendously rounded finish (this is not yet a route!!). Trewellard climbs the left arete on the right side. FA Ben Rowe '99 Note: remains of bolts can be found on the right of the wall - these were "allegedly" placed by a local activity centre to hold on metal ledges so that the wall could be used for the punters!!
Hawks Tor
Fatboy Slim HVS 5b? #
Climbs the rounded hanging flake left of Cat's 'ere (13), to a ledge, finishing direct. FA Rob Galley and Mark Kemball. 10.1.99 "We are very unsure of the grade; it seems to depend a lot on one's girth"Garden Arete HVS 5a #
Climbs the arete left of Garden Chimney (19). A series of rounded ledges, escapable throughout. FA Mark Kemball and Rob Galley 10.1.99Lazy Daze E2 5c #
Climbs the face between Garden Chimney (19) and Crack and Platform (20), starting in the middle, trending right. The crux is to gain a supine position in the halfway break, after this superb rest, regaining the vertical is also quite tricky. FA Rob Galley and Mark Kemball 10.1.99One in the Bush VS 4c * #
25ft Entertaining. Start just right of The Roman Nose, below a blunt arete with two obvious flakes. Climb to the roof, then use the flakes to ape round right to a short crack. Step up and slightly left past a heather bush, then finish direct up slabs. Martin Dunning and Steve Gibson, March 17th 2006."The Cat's 'ere: first ascent Martin Dunning and Lynda French February 1980 - we didn't write it up at the time, but now that it is in the guide I'd like my name on it!"
Microburst E3 5c #
25ft Start about 5 feet right of One in the bush. Climb up to a break, move strenuously up and left just above the overhang and proceed directly to the top. FA Andy Grieve and Richard Hudson. 16.3.07 onsightBulging Wall HVS 5a #
25 ft Just right of Microburst. Climb the wall between Microburst and Cat Nap trending slightly right until you reach the crack in the top layer.
FA Richard Moss On-sightRock Hudson E1 5b #
25ft Start just right of the start of the Long Traverse. Climb up and move slightly left to turn the overlap. Proceed to the top out which involves another overlap. FA Andy Grieve and Richard Hudson. 16.3.07Sticks and Stones E1 5c
25 ft Start just right of Rock Hudson at the foot of a blunt rib. Climb this then through the overhang trending right to a difficult move using sloping holds. Good friend protection can be arranged in the breaks up to this point and beyond. Stand up and tackle the rounded finish. FA Andy Grieve and Richard Hudson 10.04.09 On-sightCatch it Diff #
24 ft(!) Start between Fat Boy Slim and Chimney and Ledge with an awkward bouldery start followed by easy climbing up to finish behind the Cat's Ear. FA Richard Hudson solo.2.9.07Caterwaul HVS 5a #
25ft Start a few feet right of Microburst and ascend the wall trending slightly right to reach the crack in the top layer of granite. FA Richard Hudson and Julian Grieve. 15.9.07Richard the Second Hard Severe 4b #
25 ft At the far Western end of Hawk’s Tor just to the left of Pinnacle Chimney. Climb up the left side of the leaning block. Move awkwardly around onto the front of the block and proceed to the top. Take a belay in Pinnacle Chimney. FA Richard Pollard and Richard Hudson 19.3.08 On-sightMemorex HVS 5b #
30ft Between The Recollection and Crack ‘n Up. Climb the slabby face between The Recollection and Crack ‘n Up with difficult moves through the overlap and to top out. FA Richard Moss On-sight100 % Attendance HVS 5a #
20ft At the foot of the steep face Between Moss Chimney and Diagonal Crack is a bay. The route takes the centre of the steep face in the bay. Climb up to below the overhang. Climb through this dynamically until a decent hold can be used to haul yourself onto the top. FA Richard Hudson and Richard Pollard 19.03.08 On-sight
Kilmar Tor
About halfway between the Eastern and Western turrets, just below the north side of the ridge is a higher outcrop of rock (visible from the car park). There is a large rowan tree growing near its summit.
Make Hay While The Sun Shines Severe * #
Climbs the obvious flakey crack system in the centre of the face. Very pleasant. FA Mark Kemball and Nick Dill. 10.6.99Why A Brush? H.V.S. 5b #
Climbs the face directly right of Make Hay, finishing via a shallow rounded flake. FA Nick Dill and Mark Kemball. 10.6.99"We climbed a line on Kilmar tor that is not recorded in any of the guides we have seen, it follows a roof crack out of a cave 100m along the ridge towards the car from special llama, climb up the back of the cave, follow the roof crack out to daylight along a mossy ledge until mossy jams on the lip allow you to stand on the arete, then climb the top slopey section, graded about hs 5a but will get easier as the jams get less mossy, we reakon if nobody else has claimed it septic reality would be a good name. the arete below the finish goes as well at about s 4b with the same scary topout."
TOP
Carbilly Tor
A minor but useful stop off on Bodmin Moor - less then 5 minuntes from the A30.
Carbilly Tor .pdf (full guide with photo topos).
Rough Tor
It's quite likely that many of the following will have been climbed and not recorded prior to the ascents detailed below.
A Poultry Affair VS 4b #
A short but enjoyable route possibly climbed previously as a boulder problem. Further routes can be found as you move along the escarpment away from Chicken in the Rough. Start at the foot of the gully which leads down from the summit to Chicken in the Rough. 20 ft) Start at the foot of the gully at the foot of the blunt arête. Well protected 4b moves allow the top to be reached. FA Richard Hudson, Richard Pollard and Julian Greaves 26.1.08 On-sight
Dodgy Clutch E2 5c * #
About 20 metres from the foot of the gully and moving away from Chicken in the Rough is the best looking section of this part of the crag. Start at the foot of a face on screes. 25ft) The route climbs the slabby face to start. Arrange friend protection and pass the overlap on its left making difficult moves up the short wall above. Small friends in a flake allow a belay to be taken close to the edge. FA Richard Hudson, Julian Greaves and Richard Pollard 26.1.08 On-sightSlab ‘n Tickle S 4a #
A few feet right of Dodgy Clutch is an easier way to the top. 25 ft Climb the slab, turn the overlap on its right hand side and proceed up the slab above. Small friend belays as for Dodgy Clutch. FA Richard Hudson, Richard Pollard and Julian Greaves 26.1.08 On-sightRough Tor Corner HS 4b #
Start right of Dodgy Clutch / Slab’n Tickle is a bay. This route takes the short hanging arete in the bay. 20 ft Climb the short hanging arête in the bay.
FA climbers’ names and precise date: Julian Greaves, Richard Pollard and Richard Hudson 26.1.08 On-sightQuartz and All S 4a #
15 feet right of Rough Tor Corner is a short corner. Right of the corner is a short wall with a patch of quartz on it. 20 ft) Climb the wall using the quartz to assist upward progress. FA Richard Pollard, Julian Greaves and Richard Hudson 26.1.08 On-sightDeja View HS 4b #
Opposite and to the right of Chicken in the Rough is a fairly substantial, but broken, granite face. 30 ft) Start just to the left of the foot of the green chimney at the left side of the crag and climb up trending left. Arrange copious friend protection in the horizontal cracks and make further moves up and left until the top and good belays are reached. FA Richard Hudson and Julian Greaves 2.5.08 On-sightLikes it Rough V.Diff 4a #
The route is situated on a small buttress a short distance left of Deja View buttress. 25 ft) Climb the vague groove (corner?) passing detached, but seemingly solid, blocks. FA Julian Greaves and Richard Hudson 2.5.08 On-sightLove Action E1 5b #
Follow the line of the crag that Deja View is situated on back around to the left. A small broken buttress is found and this sports a couple of routes. 20 ft Start at the foot of the wall to the left of Likes it Rough. Climb the wall and move through the overhang with some difficulty. FA Richard Hudson and Julian Greaves 2.5.08 On-sight
Helman Tor
Hellfire E1 5c #
30 feet A hard problem-climb up the wall right of Bloody Helman. Climb directly up the wall to a break, continue up a
small short groove to another break, finish direct on the top-out moves of Hell's Tooth. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: Barnaby Carver. (Solo) 13 September 1999. Climbed solo from the ground up after a few previous attempts.The Saint’s Way S 4b #
30 ft Just right of Hell’s Tooth is a small bay at the back of which is a crack. FA Richard Hudson and Richard Pollard 20.4.08 On-sightAngel Delight V.Diff 4a #
30 ft 10ft right of the start of Hell’s Tooth is a slab. Climb the slab, through the overlap and follow an obvious handrail feature up leftwards to finish. FA Richard Hudson 12.2.08 On-sight solo
Luxulyan Valley
Carmear Rocks
Brown and Strangely Dripping Variation HVS/E1 5b
From the ledge above the peg climb the thin seem above moving left at the top. FA L Earnshaw, D Gillard 1989. Variation: Richard Moss (soloed after cleaning) 17/12/08Right of Titch:
War without a Face HS 4c
20m. Climb out of the cave found at the bottom of the buttress to a short crack below the main crack. Tricky climbing leads to the main crack, follow this and contort around the oak growing out the crack. FRA Richard Moss (solo) 08/12/08Left of Titch:
Game Over E2 5c
20m. Start to the right of Game On. Climb a corner then another corner up to the roof now move up and left to join a crack, which leads to the top. FA Richard Moss, Hannah Woolley, Gregor Candaline 08/12/08The Off-width Severe
15m. Start below the obvious off-width crack to the right of the buttress. Climb up a little corner to some good holds then climb the crack above to a dirty finish. FRA Richard Moss (solo) 08/12/08 Probably climbed before but unrecorded).Above and to the right of main buttress a few larger boulders can be seen. One is slightly larger and cleaner than the others; here can be found one route/ problem:
Missing the Point E1 6a/b
6m. Possible just another good problem but the landing is pants. Climb a short slab to a big bald arete, climb the left-hand side using a small seam and something out left to gain the encircling band then the top. FA Richard Moss (soloed after cleaning) 17/12/08Will Lukes Hat
Approach as for luxulyan quarry,instead of walking into the quarry head up the steep hill on the rim of the quarry until you can drop down into the section of woodland behind the quarry. The rocks are straight ahead and are identified by a steep slab capped with a large roof.
Faultless Performance E3 5b/c * #
This climbs the right side of the slab using the arete up to the roof. Move left into an undercling and make a long blind reach to a chicken-head on top of the roof. Throw a heel up and rock over. (This tricky roof can be avoided by moving around the arete to an easy finish - for yellow bellies). FA Andy Steinberg onsight solo 30.02.06 Note: Graded for a solo - leading it may reduce the grade.Hannah E3 6b #
Climb the arete to the right of Faultless Performance. FA Mosseee 09/2008 After lots of pre-practise and a ground fall on a previous attempt.To Tape VS 4c #
Climb the left hand of two obvious jamming cracks to the top. FRA Mosseee solo 07/2008 must have been done before by Andy Stienberg?Or Not To Tape VS 4c #
The slightly wider right hand crack. FRA Mosseee solo 07/2008 must have been done before by Andy Stienberg?Menace to Sobriety VS 5a #
Climb the thin crack to the right moving into Not to Tape to finish. FRA Mosseee solo 07/2008Naomi's Massive Arm E4 6b * #
The arete to the right of Faultless Peformance. FA Sam Harvie (solo with bouldering mat after cleaning on top rope).Wild Thing E6 6b *** #
A superb route with bold and technical climbing. Although short, a fall from the crux would result in a ground fall longer than the route itself. Climb straight up the middle of the slab to a break. Now move right into the undercling and finish through the roof as for the previous route. FA Andy Steinberg/Andy Grieve 5th May 08 climbed after top rope practice. 2 mats were also placed on the large boulder directly below the slab.
Lost World Quarry
Left of Bouncy Kangeroo:
Nasca Lines HVS 5a #
10m. Climb the dirty crumbly arete to a tree. Best use the rope sling, as a lower off as the top is extremely dirty.
FA Mosseee solo 11/2008The Tenner HVS 5a 30 feet #
This route lies 40 feet to the right of On Mirkwood Edge (facing in). Surmount the narrow ledge and climb the slab on edges to a narrow crack and peg removed, crux moves lead to a small ledge. FA Andy Steinberg (belayed by Gareth Palmer) 22/4/07Tio Mosseee HVS 4c #
15m. Unprotected. Start as for May Day Climb (note: unsure of where this is) but step right to a long thin ledge. Climb the middle of the slab to a ledge below the top (and a Buzzards nest). Descend as above. FA Richard Moss (solo after cleaning) 10/2008Tia Hannah E2 5c #
10m. Start 3m left of the arete, just to the right of a damp dirty groove. Climb the thin wall staying left of the thin crack (used for side runners); press on directly to the top. Variation: Swing left with difficult to a shallow groove and then to the top. Could have a direct start if it ever dries out. Abseil descent. FA Richard 'Mosseee' Moss, Hannah Woolley 02/01/2009Don’t Believe Everything You Breath HVS 5a #
10m. Follow the arete boldly at first, then follow the crack and on to the top via horizontal breaks. Abseil off. FA Mosseee solo after cleaning 10/2008Boomerang HVS 5a 30 feet #
This climbs the obvious fault line on the right of the slab continuing up the narrow piller of rock to the top. FA Andy Steinberg (belayed by Gareth Palmer) 22/4/07Good Friday HVS 5a 30 feet #
A nice route. climb the right hand side of the wall using the sharp arete to a virtical crack and runners. move left to the horizontal break and finish up the centre of the wall. FA Andy Steinberg, Gareth Palmer 06/4/07Luxulyan Valley Quarry
(Nr St. Austell cornwall) Grid ref: 059568
How to get there: The quarry is situated in Luxulyan Valley, from Luxlyan head through the valley under the aqueduct for about 2 min’s. You pass through some tight corners and past a couple of houses. Go under an old metal bridge, directly on the left is a small track, park here (don’t block the track off). Follow a small path down next to the railway the quarry is on the right.
A Muppets Day Out HVS 5a #
50ftish The striking corner situated in the centre of the main wall. Climb the corner in its entirety, belay on the pedestal (thread). No second pitch to date; retreat was via poor thread on belay. FA James Hoskin, Ian Stocker 2001
Roche Rock
Smoked Bacon E2 6a
45 feet Eliminate. Climb directly up through the centre of two overlaps just right of Porky. Don't use the flakes and
crack just right, side runners in these or in Porky reduce the grade to H.V.S/E1. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: Barnaby Carver, W. A. (Toni) Carver. 05 June 1999. Climbed after a handful of attempts from the ground up without prior inspection or pre-practice.
Cheesewring Quarry
The following routes have had gear replaced:
Double Agent F7a bolted (previously relied on pegs)
Agent Provocoteur F7a+ bolted (previously relied on pegs)
Potential Energy F6c+ bolted (previously relied on pegs)
West Point F6b re-bolted
Feline Adventures F6b+ re-bolted (now has a direct as well - see below)
Tag F7b re-bolted
Crucifier F7a re-bolted (previously relied on pegs and bolts)
Half Man Half Biscuit E3 6a (1 bolt replaces stolen peg)
Debutante E3 6a (1 bolt replaces peg)
Warrior F6c re-bolted
Friend or Foe F7a+ re-bolted
Gone to Pot F6c+ bolted (previously relied on pegs removed after 1st ascent)
Psychokiller E6 6c Fr 7c+
Sling Shot F7b (re bolted)Please note that where pegs have been replaced with bolts, or where additional bolts have been added, this has been done so with consultatation with the first ascentionist.
Feline Direct F6c+
A direct on Feline Adventures. From good low holds reach up to clip bolt, now make a big dyno to the shelf. FA Andy steinberg, belayed by rich pollard. 11/06/09
Spacehopper F6c+ *
40 ft. Follow Corner Route for 10’. Place bomber gear behind flakes in the corner. Make thin moves right along the lower crack to clip the first bolt. Make a hard couple of moves (crux) to reach the second bolt. Steadily past this on small edges to the the finishing edge and jugs. FA Richard Hudson and Richard Pollard 12.10.08
Old Boy HVS/5b/F6a
The hanging arete right of debutante 1 bolt FA Richard Hudson 2008
Mr. Kesuke Miyagi E1 6a #
30ft 5a Tackle the 5a boulder problem on the black wall immediately left of Thorndyke. Mantel precariously onto the ledge of Thorndyke and move up to the horizontal crack above where decent runners can be found. Belay at the left hand side of the large ledge. 35 ft 6a Above the belay is a bolt. Move up to clip the bolt on good holds. Use these for feet, move up through a blank section; the crux. Mantel above this and finish easily up more broken ground. FA Richard Hudson and Richard Pollard 7.12.08Facing Mecca E2 5b
110ft Start 10ft left of Silva Gray below an under cut/ side pull climb left wards to the large ledge system above the bore holes on Silva Gray. Pitch 2 Climb direct to the borehole (two friend two's usefull) follow this to a stiff pull on to the ledges. Move right to a peg then left to the blunt arete follow this to the top taking in the last parts of meccas whit finish (friend 3 half and small cams protects).Oldboy HVS 5b/ F6a
25 ft Takes the arete right of Debutante on the Southern Outcrop. Start below the hanging arete and head for the bolt. Clip, crank up on a hidden hold around the corner and make a loooong reach to commodious finishing jugs. FA Richard Hudson and Richard Pollard 7.9.08I'm a bit confused about the following route. Hopefully it will make sense at the crag!
Simanon Super Direct E1 5b?? ##
Basically a variation start to Simian (or Simanon?). Start 25ft right of Simian's (or Simanon?) chain below a peg. Climb steeply to the peg (small wire just above) then move onto the ledge system (Big ring on right). Move up and left to the vee groove with a nut placement on Simian and follow this to the top. Swinburne Finish E2 5b. Once the second belay of siminan direct is reached, Climb the groove of Simian (the E3), once your feet are above the roof traverse left across the slab (feet above the lip). Then finish past the bolts and pegs of hot lava to the top. FA Robson and Mosseee 15/07/07Silva Gray the Other Way E4 6a #
A a series of variations on Silva Gray. Starting as for that route. 1. 5c/6a Climb the wall left of Silva Gray's pegs to a high peg on the left. A delightful sequence using the bore holes follows to gain a standing position on a ledge on the right move up to the bore hole belay. 2. 6a Walk left past the bog murtle bush to a crack follow this the the roof and climb direct to the pegs then swing left on to the slab follow this to the top. FA Mosseee head point solo after lots of practice on a shunt. Date?Fair One Fr. 7a 30" #
About 15 feet to the left of the first pitch of Silver Grey is a shallow hanging corner with three bolts. Get into the corner and use the undercut to make a powerful reach to a good hold. Finish direct. FA Andy Steinberg, Richard Pollard 10/01/09Hypodermic Like This HS 4b* #
1) As for Traitors Gate into the Fortress. 2) Make the exposed traverse of Scapegoat, leftwards out on the Fortress. Belay to Thread Shot Holes on the grassy ledge. 3) From The Grassy Ledge, head up and right staying next to the arete. Good holds and Gear lead to a bold and exposed finish. FA Alex Orr and Tom Bunn 06/03/2010Hypothermic Like That HVS 5a* #
1) As for Traitors Gate into the Fortress 2) From the precariously placed boulder at the left end of the Fortress, traverse left for 7ft and gain an obvious hand ledge just above eye level. Move up and left aiming for the curious flake formations. Continue up the right side of the arete and finish as for "Hypodermic like This". FA Tom Bunn andAlex Orr 06/03/2010
Gold Diggings Quarry
Heva Oak Tree E1 5b
9m. Left of Zebedee there is a short crack, which is followed to an arête. There is some slightly suspect rock; use of the ledge is to be avoided FA Mosseee & Hannah 1998My Precious E4 6b
9m. Left again is a small fault line climb this to the horizontal break. Then finish up the thin fingery wall above. FA Mosseee & Hannah 1998
Gamas Point
OS ref 025473Approach from Pentewan beach at low tide. The cliffs get bigger and more interesting till a 120 ft wall is reached. Towards the left side is a pleasant-looking corner:
Doom Laden XS
130 feet "If it was made of granite it would get at least two stars" (Dave Garner). Belay on a ledge under a small overhang left of the corner (to increase second's chances of survival). 1) 90 feet. Follow the corner, move around the sloping roof then up over detached rock to until a big layback move over the next bulge gains a niche below the top. 2) 40 feet. Step left and climb vertical vegetation to reach the cliff path, then retreat to Mevagissey for several pints of 'Doom'. FA May 28, 2002 P Littlejohn, D Garner
Dodman Point
On the obvious 25ft East facing vertical wall due South along line of the ridge from the cross.
Doddy E2 5c #
The left arete of the wall just to right of the chimney has a tricky low crux followed by bold climbing higher up. FA Jon Wilson solo 05/2009
Diddy E4 6a #
'Reasonably obvious' line 2 metres to the right of Doddy taking the best part of the wall. Unprotected. FA Jon Wilson solo (after top rope) 05/2009Dead Man's Curve E5 #
150ft The 'show-stopping' crack line R of Horrorshow. Very strenuous but will take all the wires you can carry. Start at the huge leaning flake below the line.1. 100 ft 6a Climb the R edge of the flake then move up the arête of the wall to reach the cracks. After a hard start follow the cracks to a big quartz jug on the right and a perfect stance.2. 50 ft 5b Climb the arête then easy slabs to the top of the buttress. FA . P Littlejohn, D Garner 4/5/2005The Jolly Farmer Hard Very Severe #
180 ft The slabby corner L of Horrorshow gives a relatively gentle way up an otherwise forbidding cliff. 1. 140 ft 4c Start up the corner then move L along a detached flake and climb the slab above, trending left to a rib leading to the upper slab. Continue to belays in a horizontal crack above a grass tongue. 2. 40 ft 4a Climb the quartzy slab above to belays on the blocky ridge. FA P Littlejohn, D Garner (alt) 4/5/2005Prelude VS 4c #
50 ft Just to the right of the start of 'Divine Comedy is a striking crackline slanting leftwards to a small overhang at mid height. Surmount the overhang and finish carefully. Belay off the cross and or insitu stake. FA Kevin Lowry and Gareth Palmer, 5/6/06 'Mediterranean Blue VS 4c #
60 ft. Start in the corner 30ft to the right of Divine Comedy. Climb the slab, pooly protected, to an overhang. Climb the overhang to gain a ramp which is followed to the top. Belay off stakes. FA Gareth Palmer and Kevin Lowry, 7/6/06Oceans HVS 5a #
65ft Moving 20ft down rightwards from Med Blue start in a niche. Climb steeply for 18ft past an to overhang to gain a slab. Move leftwards up a groove until a headwall is reached. Continue along a ledge to the left and up to stake belays. FA Gareth Palmer and Kevin Lowry, 13/6/06.Happy Slapper Diff #
40 ft Just right of the descent path is an easy angled ramp. The happy climbers path to the top FA Gareth Palmer and Kevin Lowry (solo) 13/6/06Immediately West of the Horrorshow cliff is an overhanging wall near sea level.
Age of Navigators 140 feet E4 5c #
An interesting voyage up the fluted groove which bounds the overhanging wall on the left. Scarcely tidal. Belay near the left end of the shelf running beneath the cliff. Move left and follow the main line, which trends slightly left to a distinct overhang at 70 ft. Pull over this then move left round the arête and finish via the obvious break. Belay blocks high up the slope. FA 29/05/2002 P Littlejohn, D Garner
Lantic Bay - Great Lantic Beach
GR SX147508 The beach is near the village of Polruan.
Approach as for Pencarrow Head, but after crossing the coast path, follow the path down to the right onto the beach. The climbs are located on a small stack at the far end of the beach. Access is approximately 2 hours either side of low water, but this can be extended for about an extra hour with a bit of wading and easy scrambling. The rock is Devonian Slate. It is generally solid, but the finishes require care, and the rock is prone to be more friable after it has been damp. Belays are generally friends and large nuts set well back down the far side of the stack. Decent is by the easy groove on the right hand side.
The climbs are described from right to left.
Giggle VD
25' A lovely, fun little route which climbs the slab to the right of the descent gully. FA Alan Brady, Sarah Groves (both solo) 20/08/00The rib left of the gully is a pleasant scramble.
Whisky Galore VS 4b
70' A hybrid which tries to squeeze the most out of the slab by following a big diagonal line. Start by the right of the main slab. Climb easily up and left until a thin move across Lucy Brown gains a ledge. Do the crux of Sunkist, and the step up and left to finish up Regatta. FA Alan Brady, Sarah Groves 10/09/00Lucy Brown HVS 4c
30' Thin moves and thin protection! Start about 15' in from the RH arete. Follow broken cracks up to the protrusion in the overlap, and continue straight up the smooth slab above. FA Alan Brady, Sarah Groves 20/08/00Sunkist VS 4b *
35' Delightfully technical. Start in the centre of the main slab, at the point of the low level ledge. Climb stright up to the LH end of the sickle-shaped overlap, then move left and up to a ledge. Follow the shallow L-facing corner to finish. FA Alan Brady, Sarah Groves 20/08/00Regatta D
35' The obvious central corner on surprisingly large holds. FA Alan Brady, Sarah Groves 20/08/00Misty Rib D
40' The rib forming the left arete of Regatta leads to a left-sloping ramp. Poor protection. FA Alan Brady solo 10/9/00Winkle Picker HVS 5a
40' The steep slab left of Regatta has a pale patch of poor rock at half height. After a thin start, climb to a slanting crack below the pale patch. Skirt this by moving to the left arete. Finish direct on better but sometimes loose holds. FA Alan Brady, Sarah Groves 20/08/00Mussel Beach S
35' This climbs the inset slab left of Winkle Picker. Climb the slab and corner until a traverse line leads left to an obvious finish. FA Alan Brady solo 10/9/00A bit further up the beach there are some wave-washed walls which provide a little light-hearted (but quite pumpy) bouldering.
Carn Grey Quarry
(nr st. austell cornwall) grid ref:033551
How to get there: The quarry is situated just outside of St. Austell on the Carclaze to Trethurgy road. From the A391 heading into St. Austell from Penwithick go over the 1st roundabout. At the 2nd roundabout take the left had turning. Follow this road for about 5 min’s the quarry is situated up a very short track on the left, just after the turning for the waste disposal site on the right. There is normally ample parking in the car park.
The climbs are situated up a sort track leading out of the car park (north-west’ish), follow this track for about 2 min’s until the quarry opens up in front of you. The Routes start on the right of the crag and are described from right to left:
Fag Ash Lil VS 4b #
25ftish An eliminate line that has a good boulder prob. Start climbs the blank wall on the right of the crag to a large ledge. Step left and climbs through to the shallow corner at the top. Overhanging heather to finish. Belays are a No. 2 friend In Tor and some old stakes directly at the top (may be hidden by grass). FA James Hoskin, Mathias ?? July 2002The Happy Little Hooker HVS 5a * #
25ftish A delightful little climb that climbs the wall to the right of the obvious corner (two pegs in situ). Start below & just right of a ledge at about 12” climb onto the ledge then step right and climb the very shallow corner to the top. Belays are a No. 2 friend In Tor and some old stakes directly at the top (may be hidden by grass). FA James Hoskin, Phil Mathews 2001Armchair Warrior HVS 5a #
25ftish An awkward little climb that takes the arête to the left of the corner. Climb the arête in its entirety some gear available. FA Phil Mathews, James Hoskin 2001A Round of Applause S 4a #
25ftish Climbs the corner and step system. Watch out for the ants! FA James Hoskin, Phil Mathews 2002A Pimp's Pleasure VS 5a #
25ftish Start on the arête just left of the borehole & BBB. Climb the arête until standing on a large foothold, gear in thin horizontal crack. Continue up the arête to finish up steps easily. FA James Hoskin, Phil Mathews 2002
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