Esoterica
Bantham Hand
Prawle Point
Gammon Head
Sharp Tor
Bantham Hand
Wedding Band XS 4c #
Esoteric in the extreme. Start at the base of the landward arete pinching and laybacking up the quartz band (a number of essential and solid nuts can be placed along the way). Get on top of the quartz band and follow up and left (beware of some very loose flakes and flora). After a substantial runout (potential ground-fall) a sling can be placed around a solid but stubby spike. From here top out leftward on easy ground. Belay and abseil as for other routes on the Hand. FA James Henney and Graham Thomas "Although crumbly and plastered with seagull excrement, the Hand is in a great location and I thought it was worth a go. Not a 'classic route', but a real adventure. I'd be curious to know if any others have tried new things on it..."
Prawle Point
Prawle Crack HVS 4c #
"Climbs the obvious crack up the centre of the steep wall above the arch on the west side of the crag. Fortunately it is not nearly as hard as first appearances would suggest. Scramble easily down to a ledge above the huge boulder in the sea, from here ascend easily rightwards until an awkward move back left gains the base of the crack, this is then followed steeply to the top." FA Robin Thomas and Jason Maddick.
"Following our success on this line we moved to the opposite (East) side of the arch where I managed a repeat of 'The Drowning Witch' and can confirm the 'dodgyness' described in the guide but suspect a grade of pumpy E3 5b may be more appropriate. We are fairly certain that the correct line was followed as there is only one pair of rising cracklines, however, these trend Right to Left instead of Left to Right as described in the book - otherwise the route followed the description."
Wisdom E1 5b #
Well protected and interesting. A direct line through the roof above the belay. Attach the belayer as for 'The Drowning Witch" then boldly layback the crack in the roof above. A combination of large jugs and bridging then lead to the hanging corner above, regroup and swing easily leftwards to finish. FA Robin Thomas and Jason Maddick.
"Although not wishing to be over generous we both felt that all of the above routes are worthy of at least one esoteric star each." ~ Robin Thomas
Kestrel's Arete Difficult #
Climbs the left arete of the first and largest buttress on the right, above the diagonal path leading up to the coastguard look-out. A steep start leads to interesting lichen and climbing. FA Nick Taylor 28/03/97
Gammon Head
Lord of the Prawns E7 6b *** #
The wall right of Mental Block has a bit of insitu gear (pegs and thread). Bold, snappy and good. FA Ken Palmer (headpoint)
To the left of "Mental Block" is a short steep wall split in the centre by a rightward leaning double crackline.
The Esoteric Apprentice VS 4c #
60ft. Follows the crackline steeply to a ledge. Move leftwards across the impending wall above then back right, easily up a short corner to ledges and belay. (F.A. Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 29.3.97 on-sight)
Gentle Arete E1 5a * #
60ft. To the right is a fine arete, undercut at the base and easing in angle with a step near the top. Start on the left side, moving into a groove on the right side at about 20ft. Climb the interesting arete above gently with minimal protection. Thread belay well back on ledges. (F.A. Nick Taylor 29.3.97 on-sight)
Razor-back E1 5a #
65ft. Right again is an obvious groove-line which becomes more shallow towards the top.Climb this mainly by delicate bridging, past at least a couple of trust-worthy gear placements to a move rightwards onto a ledge. Regain composure, then finish directly up the continuation of the cornerline. Delicate, bold and exhilarating climbing up the next best line on the cliff after "Mental Block". (F.A. Nick Taylor 27.7.97 on-sight)
Sow Seance VD #
150ft. Climb the ramp-like arete that forms the right hand side of the "Mental Block" bay, in its entirety,on the edge overlooking the sea. Reached by an easy traverse from "Mental Block" or low-tide boulder hopping. (F.A. Nick Taylor 27.7.97 on-sight solo)
Sharp Tor
We're in Love VS 4c #
Start up the slope from Four Strong Winds, just right of the clean-cut overhang. 70ft Gain and climb the obvious v-groove then easier ground trending rightwards to a finishing corner/groove.FA Nick Taylor (onsight solo) 27/05/00
Cove Quarry
Page 316 in South Devon and Dartmoor Guide) Access to this crag is NOT PERMITTED and routes are only detailed here in the interest of completeness!
Statement of Young E6 6b *** #
140ftClimb loosely up a groove to gain the 1st peg of The Rink of Disaster and continue above to a ledge. Make hard moves out right (crux), then move up to reach a crack which is followed past a peg to gain the second peg of The Rink….A move out left is made to arrive at a pocket and bolt. Climb above the bolt for 30 ft to 2 knife blade pegs, then a traverse up and right leads to the final nut slot of The Rink…, up which you finish. FA Simon Young (crux moves shunted prior to lead) January 1998.
Above and Beyond the Kinetic Barrier E5 5c *** #
30ft …The "kinetic barrier" in this case being some small trees/shrubs growing out of the slab. Climbs the slab above the diagonal ramp R of the "Rink…" slab. Ascend the slab as far as a large sloping pocket, move R and continue directly up the slab to the top. FA Simon Young Autumn 1999 (solo)
Spot the Ball E8 6c *** #
To the right of The Rink… is a big slab with some bolts in. "An incredibly sustained and bold line up an almost featureless slab. Long run-outs combined with tenuous moves on minuscule holds make this a very exacting lead. Most of the bolts are 8mm self-drilled Petzls. 1. 120ft Climb with some difficulty to a bolt at 20ft. Traverse Rwards and climb this to a 2nd bolt. Move L until a good hold is gained and climb directly up on spaced holds past 2 more bolts until a step R gains a another bolt. Hard moves up and L lead to a further bolt from where a rising Rwards traverse gains a hold – RP5 in slot. Step out L and make a delicate move up onto a protruding, submerged ball (bolt above - hard to clip). Further baffling moves lead up to the final bolt. Finish direct by sustained hard climbing." FA Simon Young 27.11.99
The following batch of routes are found on a black slab on the far R of the quarry – it should be easy enough to find as it has a few bolts in. Development has been along the theme of a "North Wales Slate Slab". The routes have been sportingly bolted and have good fall potential. The area above the slab is unstable, making abseil inspection or topping out problematical and dangerous – consequently the routes have all been equipped with Lower-off points.
Hernia E4 6a ** #
50ft Start at the extreme L corner of the slab. Step out R onto the slab and make thin moves up and R to an obvious pocket. Attain a standing position in the pocket then step R to a similar pocket. Move up and R past a weird protruding bollard to better holds and a bolt. Finish up Sapling Groove. Lower off. FA Simon Young Autumn '99
Sapling Groove E3 5c * #
50ft
Start by a tree 10ft down from Hernia. Climb the slab direct to a bolt. Move R and climb the obvious slanting groove until it is possible to step left (bolt). Finish more easily past this to a lower off. FA Simon Young Autumn '99
Sapling Slab E3 5c ** #
50ft
Start 6 ft R of Sapling Groove. Climb the slab to a line of square cut edges leading rightwards (peg). Enter the crack above and follow it to where it peters out. Move R then finish direct to a bolt lower off. FA Liam Grant Autumn '99
Sapling Crack E4 6a *** #
50ft
Start below the obvious slanting crack. Climb to the base of the crack and climb it, passing a peg, until it is possible to step L to some thin holds leading to a lower off. FA Liam Grant Autumn '99
Stung Beaver E7 6b *** #
55ft. Start to the R of Sapling Crack. Climb to a weakness in the overlap and pull through into a very shallow groove. Make hard moves up to a better hold. Marginally easier moves lead to double bolts. Move L then make a big step up. A very thin traverse L brings a good holds and easier climbing leads to a bolt Lower off. FA Simon Young Autumn '99
Tickled Pink E4 6a * #
50ft. Start
10 ft R of Stung Beaver, climb to a bolt just over the overlap. Continue direct to a second bolt then make more hard moves to a lower off. FA Simon Young Autumn '99
The Beer Mat Traverse E6 6b *** #
60ft.
Start as for Tickled Pink. From the first bolt traverse L (below a slight depression) until hard moves up and L lead to Stung Beaver. A couple of thin moves gain the double bolts and the same finish as Stung Beaver. FA Simon Young Autumn '9
Ladram Bay
Big Picket Rock
Revenge of the Razor Fish VI (E1 ish) 5b #
90ft. An alternative to the orginal final pitch of Big Picket (which has fallen down!). From the cave/chimney (where the original moves right) move out left. Traverse to a crack which is climbed until a grovel right gains the summit. Take long slings to reduce drag. All gear in-situ (bongs, angles and re-bar!!) although Snargs 1 and 2 may also be of use (but not essential!). FA Bruce Woodley, James Pyne 27.8.98 (originally with bit of aid) - a bit of cheating is still possible if you want to bag the summit at a more amenable grade).
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