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WEST CORNWALL
Guidebook: West Cornwall Authors/Year: loads (edited by Nigel Coe) 2001 Publisher: The Climbers' Club
Cornish Rock by Rowland Edwards, Tim Dennel and Mark Edwards
A selection of the best routes in the area can also be found in South West Climbs by Pat Littlejohn (Diadem)
Headlines:
- Rowland and Mark Edwards' at it again. Carn Boel Upper, Zawn Kelly, Carn Barra
- E3 action at Black Head
- New Littlejohn E5 on The Lizard
- Pickford hard Great Zawn route from last year; Pen Olver E1 (15 July 2006)
- Bosigran new route (12 October 2005)
- Eggy Land's End Action! (28 September 2005)
- Vellan Head rockfall (15 June 2005)
- Pedn Kei Zawn action (15 June 2005)
- Hollywood Walls and St. Levans Wall action (27 March 2005)
Older Stuff
Mark Edwards summer roundup. New routes at Dutchmans Zawn , Zawn Rinny and Pordenack (9 November 2004)
James Marshall "Hendrix Lives" adds new HVS to Carn Vellan. (28 April 2004)
Halldrine Cove Lower grade action - full guide with topo! (New page) (8 April 2004)
Dutchman Zawn action (25 November 2003)
New tottering pile of choss climbed on The Lizard (29 September 2003)
E3 Action at Trewavas Head (29 September 2003)
New traverse at Halldrine Cove (29 September 2003)
Pendeen Action (19 September 2003)
Chris Hall climbs bits and bobs at Penberth and Pen Olver (28 July 2003)
Nice Little New Crag on the Lizard and some action from Pen Olver (19 March 2003)
Mark Edwards Summer round-up: Sennen (new E8); Hella Point (new E9); Penberth (3 new E7's and more); Bashers (2 new E6's, 1 new E5 and more!) 2002
Strewth mate; hot action from Boswednack (2 November 2002)
South Wales Boyz visit Basher's Harbour (23 September 2002)
WhirlPool Slabs New routes. A full guide to this crag, including topos (18 new routes, 4 existing). Developed by Barnaby Carver and Team.
Barnaby Carver - new easier lines at Porthguarnon East (and Rik Meek Team!!) (new page) (28 May 2002)
Lower Grade Development at Boscawen Point (1 May 2002)
Team Hannon, Meek and O'Sullivan discover pleasant new crag on The Lizard (17 February 2002)
.... yet another Rik Meek team route! (19 December 2001)
Mark Edwards new routes from last season at Carn Kenidjack and Zawn Rinny (27 November 2001)
Rik Meek and Pete O Sullivan + team add about a million new routes (includes topo and photos) (new page) (14 November 2001)
Paul Harrison visits Carn Guthenbras and Carn Les Boel (17 September 2001)
Rik Meek and Pete O Sullivan add lines to Porthguarnon East (16 July 2001)
New E3 on Amnesty Wall, The lizard (21 June 2001)
More St. Levan's Routes (21 June 2001)
Rik Meek and Pete O'Sullivan add new E2 to St. Levans Wall area (10 May 2001)
2 lines have been climbed at The Pen Olver area of The Lizard (6 May 2001)
West Penwith
North Coast
Gurnard's Head
Boswednack
Robin's Rocks
Halldrine Cove (full guide on separate page)
WhirlPool Slabs
Pendeen Cliffs
Carn Vellan
Carn Kenidjack
Aire Point
SennenSouth Coast
Land's End
Pordenack
Carn Les Boel
Carn Boel
Carn Barra
Dutchman's Zawn
Zawn Kelly
Pellitras Point (separate page)
Black Carn North, Blocks Promontory (separate page)
Carn Guthenbras
Zawn Rinny (Chair Ladder)
Hella Point
Vessacks
Penberth
St. Levan's Wall
Cribba Head
Porthguarnon East (new page)
Boscawen Point
Bashers Harbour
Trewavas Head# - unconfirmed!
Gurnards Head Area
Pedn Kei Zawn, The West Wall
The following route is the first on this stunning looking wall. However it never gets the sun, is always damp and the rock is very crumbly and a number of cormorants nest here so no climbing before august!
Who Wants to Live Forever 50m E2 5b
Start at the corner above the rock pool at the far right of wall
1.15m 5b climb the corner(wet)step right follow the open groove exit this rightwards climb the bird limed wall above to a good ledge with poor peg belay.
2.25m 5a climb to an obvious hanging corner swing right to the ledge above move slightly right and up to gain the next break,step left to end of ledge(peg for seconds back rope advised)climb down the rotten corner(with care)until the large ledge system can be followed left,half way along this step up hand traverse left to belay at the foot of the clean corner.
3.10m 4c climb the corner to the top.
FA Luke Pavey, Andy Steimberg (pitch 1). Luke Pavey (pitch 2and3) rope solo!(8.2004)
Robins Rocks
To the left (facing in) of Sensible Shoes is a buttress with a short gully on its seaward end. The following route starts from small barnacle encrusted ledges at the base of the gully.
Alpine Blisters Very Severe 5a #
65 feet Step down and traverse rightwards to a ledge just above the high tide mark. Make hard and bold moves right under an overlap and continue easily up a groove, move right through a small roof and finish up the center of the slab. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: Barnaby Carver, Tobi Carver, Matthew J. Berriman 6th August 2000. Climbed on-sight.
Bosigran
Halldrine Cove
Drop Out Hard Severe 4b #
Traverse at Halldrine Cove. Traverses leftwards under an overhang starting from the bottom of Limpet Slab. Continue horizontally until able to step down onto an airy ledge under a second slight overhang. The route finishes up and left of this face. Can be done in 2 pitches to minimise rope drag on the end section. Good gear apart from on the final traverse section. FA Thomas Gilbert, Theo Floyd 15/09/03
Bosigran Ridge area
Waltzing Matilda HVS 5b ** 130 ft #
An excellent, sustained traverse of the Gallipoli area, with a strong line and perfect rock throughout. 1. 50 ft 5a Start at the very foot of Bosigran Ridge, as for Dolphinarium. Climb this for 15ft to a break, then make hard moves right to the arete. Move up and round to a ledge and then make fingery moves to belay in Cure By Choice.2. 80 ft 5b Move easily up and right before making exciting moves across the top of a steep wall to join Imphal. Hand traverse the obvious break across the wall, with a particularly difficult move to join Gallipoli. Continue awkwardly along the break to finish on the ledge of Mandalay. FA Rik Meek, Brian Hannon, Martin Dunning, Pete O'Sullivan, Spring 2005Kagutsuchi E7 6b *** #
60ft The daunting, virtually protectionless wall left of the corner of Imphal (E2 5c) is one of the more serious leads on the north coast of West Penwith. Magnificent climbing rewards the brave. Start at a short flake crack a couple of metres left of the corner of Imphal, Climb the crack to its end at a spike runner and RP 2 at 2.5 metres (the only gear protecting the crux at 10 metres). Take a deep breath and make a sustained and intricate sequence directly up the centre of the wall, to a thank-god break at 40ft and bomber cams. Relax, shake out and proceed directly to the top, with a tricky move to finish.FA: Dave Pickford (unseconded) June 2005. Kagutsuchi is a fearsome fire-god of the Japanese Shinto religion, whose powers were much feared throughout ancient Japan. The first ascent was made in the direct sunlight of a midsummer's afternoon, making the crucial crimps somewhat fiery, hence the reference. Climbed headpoint style after top roping
Pendeen Cliffs
(Pendeen watch)
A climb beneath the sewage outlet pipes at the top of the zawn climbed during a `barron` period of activity not recomended otherwise.
Andy`s Route HVS 5a #
65ft 5a.Aproach by the rightwards traverse from below the pulpit block as for Sick Dreams to belay at the start of that route 100ft 4c Climb rightwards and follow the obvious corner to the top. Now wash your hands! FA Luke Pavey,Sam Palmer 16.8.03The Hod. 33m. HVS 5a # (**)
A right to left rising traverse of the north wall of Horn Zawn,Pendeen. Abseil stake above east wall. Start at base of chimney in back of zawn. Climb the slab moving left below the roofs into the groove of Painted Lady.Make a move up this then left to a pocket. Move up to gain the horizontal groove which is traversed leftwards on improving holds to finish. FA J.Ford. P.Bristow. Gareth.Palmer.19/3/05 (onsight)Its a Dogs Life. Severe 4b
18m. Zawn escape route. A left to right rising traverse of the south wall. Abseil stake above east wall. Start on the large platform. Step across the trench at the lowest point to take the first corner on the left. Move back right 4m to the second corner(beware of the perched block above)and pull onto the ramp which is traversed easily rightwards to finish. FA . J.Ford, Gareth Palmer. 2/4/05 (onsight)TOP
Boswednack - Zawn Dredd
(West Cornwall guide, page 75)
The right wall of the zawn is rarely in condition, but when it is (summer evenings), it provides good climbing on solid rock. Routes by Neil Foster, Claire Reading Routes are described from R to L. The first two are approached by traversing carefully left above the barnacled roof to belay on good ledges at the base of the prominent right-facing corner system which runs up the face.
An Audience With Milton Thomas E2 5b #
15m Follow the line which rises from halfway along the approach traverse finishing up the thin crack just left of the right arête of the zawn. FA Neil Foster, Claire Reading 25/6/01The Man Engine HVS 5a #
15m The corner system and continuation to exit at a notch FA Claire Reading, Neil Foster 25/6/01The next 3 routes start from a block ledge with an obvious crack leading up from its left hand side.
The Shambles E2 5c #
15m Climb the hanging groove in the arête above the right end of the block ledge, exiting left to gain a shelf. Pull onto the slab and tiptoe carefully up the gangway which leads rightwards to finish up the last few moves of The Man Engine. FA Neil Foster, Claire Reading 25/6/01The County Adit E2 5b, 5c #
25m 1) Climb the steep crack and continue via the mineral vein on the left, to a perfect flat stance at the base of a slabby area. 2) Follow the left-leaning groove in the headwall on the left, finishing at the V-slot. An interesting pitch, reminiscent of Tremadoc. FANeil Foster, Claire Reading 25/6/01The Coffin Level E5 6a #
25m The line of Zawn Dredd. Follow the slanting recess which runs up left from the block ledge to good runners in the obvious horizontal break at its top. Make a committing pull up left to gain the steep headwall, and sprint up this (Fr 3.5) to the top. FA Neil Foster, Claire Reading 30/6/01The following route goes up the wall to the right of the Ways to be Wicked.
Just Before Thirty E4 6a ** #
TOP
Great moves with just enough protection! 18 meters Start on the ramp about four meters right of Ways to be Wicked. Follow a line of good holds and mantle into the diagonal break at 3 meters. Move up and left boldly on spaced but good holds until a good jug is reached and feet are on the foot ledge (shared with Ways to be Wicked). Arrange runners awkwardly at foot level. Long moves up and slightly right lead to good holds and protection. Thin, tenuous moves take you through the crux, moving slightly rightward to a large flat hold before moving left up the wall on good holds to finish about 2 meters right of the crack of Ways to be Wicked. FA Bruce Kerry, Tom Starbuck April 2007 (after top rope inspection).
Carn Vellan
The Short Good Friday HVS 5a #
50ft On the wall right of Insurance Drain climb up the thin crack, past an obvious large wire placement, on surprising jugs. Trend up and right to follow the obvious line of weakness under the bulge, then finish direct where the angle eases, just left of a loose-looking corner ("Kurtzer"?). Some loose rock.F.A. James Marshall and Kate Morris (9/4/04)The following is not really a "new route" as it was climbed in 1999. However, given that it's probably one of the hardest leads in the Country here's a full description:
Rewind E10 7a #
Mark's original description: "This climb is possibly the hardest of it's nature in West Penwith, and maybe beyond. Bolder than Question Mark, with some suspect rock in areas. Also technical in extremely powerful positions requiring a degree of mental control to overcome the seriousness of this climb.A climb of immense character through the obvious weakness of this huge impressive roof. Natural in line, extremely bold with serious groundfall impact from a great height guaranteed. The route had been climbed a few years earlier (than the FBFA date below) with pre-placed protection, as a bolt-free headoint. It became the challenge to climb the route ground-up placing the gear. Unfortunately most of the protection on the headpoint ascent was impossible to clip, due to the requirements of the moves, also placing the gear requires both hands, obviously not practical on such a steep roof. Therefore many RP's and small wire placements became redundant. This is worrying knowing that you must climb past them un-protected. Another worry is the weather as the climb rarely comes into condition; northwest facing, catching the sun only at its lowest axis, and prone to sea mist and spray. You just have to be lucky and in top condition at the same time - not easy! (many visits ending up in The Queens Arms due to seepage).
There are two points of danger. First, climbing over some suspect rock to the only rest hold (several holds have snapped here during the bolted sports climbing ascents). Secondly above reaching the upper crack/groove (although this can be slightly tamed if the crux is reversed after placing two poor small Aliens). The crux is then reclimbed and a long run-out made to the groove/crack and the best protection ever (a fall from below this point would result in a 90ft groundfall and a good chance of hitting the Gnome Boulders - not recommended). Note: if your belayer is willing to take the 40ft jump of the boulders then the grade could be reduced, but reserve a hospital bed first!"
FA Mark Edwards as the sport route Blue Sky Lightning First Bolt Free Ascent Mark Edwards
Kenidjack Main Cliff
Kin-ard-crack! E4 6a #
120 ft Takes the harder-than-it-looks overhanging attractive crack overlooking the Gneiss Gnome corner. FA Mark Edwards Rowland Edwards & Kevin Thomas (his1st new route). (on sight)
Aire Point
Varicose Zawn
These two routes start between Varicose and Claudication.
Little Fault Very Difficult 4b
50 feet Make a hard pull up onto the slab at a crack right of Varicose. Climb flakes up rightward to a tricky finish in a wide crack.FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: Barnaby Carver (solo) 29th May 2001. Climbed on-sight.Big Fault Very Difficult 4a
50 feet Directly up the large flake and crack in the centre of the slab. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: Barnaby Carver (solo) 29th May 2001. Climbed on-sight.Peppered Monkey Hard Severe 4b
TOP
70 feet Start as you would for Landing Strip, continue directly up by jamming the right side of the bulge, lay back on the large flake above, and finally jam up the last crack to gain access to the ramp above. First ascent: Ben O'Connor, Steve Parry - 23/05/2006.
Sennen
Black Zawn Area
Squirt Hard Severe 4b #
10m Start below and to the left of "Cut Price Comedy Climb", and below a small roof cut by a shallow groove/crack. Pull over the roof and follow the crack to the platform below the start of Gillian/Golva.FA Mark Edwards July 2004 (on-sight solo)Heart E8 6c/7a 25m *** #
Another good hard quality line. It tackles the stepped overhangs up the arete below the huge roof of Much Ado about Nothing and right of Slippery Slab. The landing is solid granite, and therefore the grade must be reduced depending on the quantity of crash mats and spotters! Start below the first roof right of the overhanging arete. Make hard pulls off the ground to reach over the roof and trend up leftwards towards the arete. Once established on a good but strenuous hold, make a difficult sequence of moves to reach the edge of the roof; first protection in crack on right. Make an awkward mantle, and continue boldly and without protection up the slab right of Slippery Slab. FA Mark Edwards (head-point solo) September 2002Also at Sennen… “29 Palms” has been re-climbed without the pegs for protection. And now can be climbed in three different styles:
With pegs…E6 6c | With sliders in the peg slots…E7 6c | With no use of peg placements…E8 6c/7a (only possible due to the recent invention of micro cams.) The latter style has a harder technical grade because a hold must be unused due to it being occupied by a micro cam, and therefore making the climbing much harder.
Lands End
Armed Knight Buttress
Damsel in Distress E2 5b #
1)75ft Start on the seaward face right of "the brave warrior".beneath a small overhang. Make a tricky step up onto a a prominent jutting foothold move up and traverse diagonally right across the slab to the arete. Climb the thin crack above. FA G.J.R Everitt, C. Griffths 21/07/2005
Pordenack Point
Green Eyes HVS 5a #
20m Start below the rightward slanting open groove/crackline left of "Amigos" on the East Face of The Green Face. Climb the groove line for 5m to pull onto a big ledge. Climb the deep groove above to the top of the pinnacle.FA Mark Edwards (on-sight solo)Granite Gorilla E6 6b #
15m This takes the wall and big obvious roof right of Mr. Haggis. Climb the centre of the wall below the roof, and pull out wildly to the lip. Cut free (bold) and pull hard to reach a flake. Follow direct up the wall passing horizontal cracks to the top. FA Mark Edwards
"Note: Mr. Haggis and Ella-phant are the same line... one being H. Severe and the other E1 5b! Elle-phant is claimed in 1994 and Mr. Haggis was first in 1985! We must have been climbing harder grades in those days..." (Mark Edwards)
Carn Boels Upper
A very pleasing area to climb in away from the crowds and with astonishing sea and cliff views. The cliff is south west facing so gets the sun all day, it is also a cliff where one can climb during the winter when the wind is coming from the north or east. One can climb here any time as it is well above the sea.
The rock is perfect granite, typical of Cornish climbing. Most of the climbing on the upper tier is of the higher grade for those seeking easier climbing then the lower tier is where they would go.
Approach from the Lands End car park . Follow the track for 1.5 mls to the last headland looking into Nangizal bay. Walk down the back of the headland and around its base on the left side to below the cliff.
Routes are described from right to left.
Micro Arête Hard Severe 4b
This is the first steep arête you see, as you approach the crag, on the right behind the main crag.25ft. Start below the arête and climb the left edge of the slab by its arête. Once on top either descend the slot behind or continue 25ft to belays on the block above. F.A. R Edwards 24th Jan 2006Bold but True E4/5 6a.
40ft A bold and exposed climb.Start on the large boulder right of the obvious large corner. Climb off the boulder onto the arête and follow this to the roof. Continue up the crack to the top. F.A. R Edwards 27th Jan 2006.Drifters E1 5b+ **
40 ft A fine climb which is deceptively difficult. Start below the obvious corner on the left. Climb the corner to the roof and then right under the roof to the arête. Climb the crack to the top. First recorded Ascent. R Edwards 1979 NB. This corner had previously been climbed using pegs and bolts going left across wall and also going right on pegs.Heart of Stone E5 6a ***
40ft A very sustained and technical climb. Start directly below the small overhang on the right of the main wall. Using the crack climb onto the short slab on the left. Cross this below the roof to the far side and pull over the roof onto the wall above. Traverse immediately rightwards to the arête then direct to the top. F.A. R Edwards 1982Grinder E2 5b**
35ft Quite a sustained route. Start at the left hand side of the wall. Climb the crack right of the large boulder. Continue up the crack until a move right leads into the crack on the right. Follow this to the top. First Recorded Ascent. R Edwards 1982. Previously climbed with peg and boltsThe Drum . Hard Very Severe 5b. **
Start as for the previous route. 35ft 5b. Climb the crack right of the block and continue up the crack directly up the wall to the top. F.A. R Edwards 1982 Possibly climbed before but not recorded?Bus Stop V Diff
30ft. Climb the left side of the boulder then the left side of the wall to the roof. Move right to the top. irst Recorded Ascent. R Edwards 1982 Possibly climbed before but not recorded?Chimney route V Diff
100ft Start at the large boulder. 1.20ft. Very Difficult. Climb the left side of the boulder and enter the chimney. Belay possible. 2.80ft. Walk into the right hand chimney and climb directly up the left wall through the boulders above.Password E1 5b*
Spectacular finish.Start below the overhanging wall on the left.40 ft Climb groove and crack to the steep wall above . Climb the overhanging crack until a move right to follow a rightwards slanting crack to the hanging chimney. Climb up this and the boulders above to the top. F.A. R Edwards. 23.7.2006.Palace-walk E5 6c***
30ft Excellent crack climbing, sustained. Start below the groove just right of the left edge of the wall. Climb the groove and crack to reach the overhanging crack which goes directly up the wall, followed this to the top. F.A. M Edwards. 10.8.2006.Cathedral of the Sea E7 6b ***
30ft A spectacular climb taking the obvious overhanging arête on the left of the wall. Climb the steep wall and the overhanging arête to the top. F.A. M Edwards. 20-7-2006.Weatherman E3 6a **
30ft Steep and strenuous climbing. Start on the left side of the crag. Climb the boulder to below the overhanging wall and crack. Climb the crack to the large ledge, up the short wall to the top. F.A. R Edwards. 1982.
Carn Les Boel
Bosistow Zawn
Its a Blue Planet E2 5b #
47 metres Superb climbing up the prominent pillar just right of Bosistow Chimney, finish up the final crack of The Ramp (HVS 4c) on poor rock. FA Paul Harrison Graham sutton 29.8.01
Carn Barra
Hookers Haven. E8/9 6c ** #
A very bold lead with a very serious ground fall should the marginal tied down sky hook rip during a fall. Takes the quartz seam to the right of Sewing Machine Man, and then the central wall above. The crux requires cool conditions for max. friction on the slopers. FA Mark Edwards Summer 2000Peel Arête 50ft Hard Very Difficult #
Start right of the start of Peel crack on the right edge of the wall. 1) 50ft. Climb the juggy wall to the ledge then climb up to the arête and follow this to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 28/2/2006Routes right side of Glass Arête area.
Wave Crest Hard Severe 4b #
Start in the gully to the right of Glass arête. 40ft) 4b.Climb either up the gully direct or up the left side onto the ledge. Traverse right into the steep groove and up this to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 24/11/005City Slicker Very Severe 5a #
40ft) 5a.Start in the gully as above to the ledge. Move right to the base of a slab and climb the faint cracks to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 24/11/005Left side of the main cliff, left of Raindancer.
Outer Edge E1 5b #
Start at the left side of the wall just to the right of the easy way down and below a wide crack. 55ft Climb the wide crack for a few feet until a move right onto the face. Climb the steep juggy wall to the roof. Pull over this to the ledge and a crack leading right, follow this to a good ledge. Climb a series of short wall to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 4/12/005Light Foot E1/2 5b #
Start from the top of the largest boulder beneath the centre of the wall. 55ft. Step off the boulder into the shallow groove to a ledge. Climb the steep wall to the next fault and move up left to a crack sloping leftwards. Follow this to the big ledge. Climb the short walls leading to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 4/12/005.Sea Biscuit. E2 5b #
Start from the top of the largest boulder below the centre of the wall. Step off the boulder onto the steep wall, with a faint crack in it and two shallow pockets on the right, which leads to the obvious ledge. Climb directly over the roof onto the wall above with a rightwards sloping crack, which is followed to the big ledge. Short walls lead to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 4/12/2005Lower Carn Barra (The Other Block).
This is a small buttress below the platform of the Grand Plage area. Although quite short the routes do give good value. A low tide is essential.
Approach. Once on the platform below Grand Plage walk to the left side (facing out) and the buttress is immediately below you.
Jug Wall Very Severe 4c #
20ft) Climb the left side of the block first up the short wall then the wall above to the middle ledge. Climb the cracks in the wall above. F.A. Rowland Edwards 29/1/2006Barnacle Arete E1 5b #
20ft) Start below the arête in the centre of the wall. Climb the steep wall just left of the faint cracks and then continue up the arête above. 5b climbing only on the initial moves. F/A. R Edwards. 29/1/200 (blimey, that's a while ago - there's retro claiming and then there's RETRO claiming!!)Slanting Crack E1 5b/c #
20ft) Start at the right side below the chimney. Climb the chimney for a short way then move left to gain the cracks which are followed to the top.F.A. Rowland Edwards 29/1/2006.The Chimney Very Difficult #
20ft) Climb into the chimney and then using the crack on the right climb to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards. 29/1/2006.
Dutchman's Zawn
Three addition to add to the climbs in this superb Zawn.
All these routes can be approached as from the bottom of the Zawn, when the tide is at its lowest, or by abseil to the first belay ledge.
Another 16 yrs on. 170 ft (to reach the belays) E3 4a, 5c
Excellent climbing with a great zawn atmosphere. 1.20 ft 4a. From the base of the wall step off the boulders onto a juggy wall , Belay on the wide ledge. 2. 150 ft 5c. ( 110 ft of climbing). Climb the steep wall on the left and enter the thin crack line on the right, follow this to the roof on its left. Climb over this, using good but well spaced holds, onto the wall above. Continue direct then slightly right and climb the short teep bulges to reach the top. Belays are well back on the large black. First ascent. R Edwards. K Thomas 15th August 2003Deep Cut 170 ft Hard Very Severe 4a, 5a #
A far better climb that what it seems. A classic line. Some care with the rock is needed although this will settle down once it has had a number of ascents. 1.20 ft 4a. From the base of the wall step off the boulders onto a juggy wall , Belay on the wide ledge. 2. Move right and climb the groove to enter the deep crack above. Follow this to just below the top when a move left can be made to climb the short steep wall above. Belays well back. FA R Edwards K Thomas 15th August 2003.Little Cut 170 ft Hard Severe 4a,4b #
1.20 ft 4a. From the base of the wall step off the boulders onto a juggy wall , Belay on the wide ledge. 2. 150 ft. Move right onto the far ledges. Climb up and right to enter the steep crack and follow the corner and short wall to the top. Belay well back. FA Rowland Edwards 29th August 2003.Bones E6 6b 5c #
45m Start below the overhanging wall left of "Eat 'em and Smile". Climb the centre of the overhanging wall via a seam and passing horizontal breaks. Pull boldly and direct up the final wall to rock precariously onto the sloping ledge. Belay at back of ledge. Climb a second pitch 5c 20m up the cracks on the right. FA Mark Edwards (second pitch soloed) Summer 2004
Zawn Kelly
Approach. Park in the car park at Porthgwarra (pay and display). Walk up the narrow road to the gate. A little further on a track leads off right ( The Coastal path). Follow this to Zawn Kellies.
Walk in descent. Traverse the edge of the cliff top left towards the deep gully on the left. This can be descended with care. It is usually wet. At the bottom go right along the boulder beach to the obvious arête of Genesis.
In many areas of the zawn the rock is desperately loose, in others it is superb. All of the climbs here keep to this excellent rock. Many of the routes have been created by wave erosion so one must expect some changes as time takes its toll.
The routes.
The first aret is taken by Genesis E4 6a. A superbly steep face and overhanging crack climb. To the left of this is another arête with a small slab at its base. This is No Hostages E3 5c. A really varied climb on excellent rock. The next arête left, with a large roof at its base, is another superb line called A Senior Moment E2/3 5b/c. Just to the left of this is a large roof leading onto a steep black wall. This is taken by Magicos Negro E3 5c.
Genesis E4 6a #
A sensational overhanging crack climb. The base of the climb is quite ‘flaky’ but once you are established on the route the rock is very good, particularly in its upper section. Start at the base of the steep large blade of rock with an obvious crack on its right face.1) 100 ft. Climb the crack to a good ledge. Climb the steep wall to the roof with a superb crack in it. Pull over this onto the steep wall above and follow the crack to just below the top. Move right and then back left to exit onto the grassy hillside. Belays are the large boulder embedded in the hillside. First ascent. R Edwards I Blake. 3rd Novemebr 2005.
No Hostages E3 5c #
Another superb line with varied climbing. Start below the next arête below a steep slab. 1) 60 ft. Climb the slab to the roof and pull over this onto a small ledge on the left. Move left and enter a groove which is climbed to a small ledge. Climb the steep wall and thin crack to the roof. Traverse left into the wide crack. Climb the very steep crack going up the centre of the wall. A mantelshelf is made at the top to eventually reach a lower off. Peg and long sling (this may be replaced by SS pegs). A continuation has been climbed to the top (for the purists) but is very loose and not worth while. F.A. Rowland Edwards (solo). 18th November 2005
A Senior Moment E3 5c #
Excellent climbing in a great ‘out there’ position. Excellent rock although the last few moves at the top are a bit loose but safe. This route starts at the base of the next arête with the large overhang at its base. 1) 110 ft 5c. Climb the cracks to the roof and traverse boldly left to the arête. Climb this to the steep slab. At its top step out onto the arête proper and follow this to ledges just below the top. Climb up these onto the grass above and belays in the boulders behind. F.A. Rowland Edwards (solo) 9th Novemeber 2005.
Magicos Negro E3 5c #
A superb climb. Start left of A Senior Moment, below a very sharp overhang. 1) 110ft 5c. Climb the groove right of the roof and step left below it to the edge. Make a bold move left onto the black face. Move left into the faint cracks and follow these until a move right is made and then up to the sloping ledge. Belay Possible. Step down and climb round the arête onto good but small ledges. Climb the slab; at its top step out left onto the arête proper and follow this to ledges just below the top. Climb up these onto the grass above and belays in the boulders behind. F.A. Rowland Edwards( solo) 25th November 2005
Chair Ladder
Zawn Rinny
Shark Alley E5 6a #
100 ft Step off the "bridge boulder" that spans the gap to Bulging Wall area. Traverse to a totally blind and sweaty move around the blunt left arete, and swing boldly into the back of the black (normally wet) chimney. And shuffle up this at VS!....not. FA Mark Edwards & Kevin Thomas (his second new route). (on sight)The Special Society Crack E3 5a 5c #
190 ft Basically takes a traverse of the north walls of Rinny Zawn to a reasonable ledge belay below the obvious crack system on the overhanging buttress left of Human Skewer. FA Mark Edwards & Kevin Thomas (his trilogy!). (on sight)Pixie Dust Corner E7/8 6b #
Start right of Human Skewer and just left of the entrance to the deep cave. 30m Start below an obvious crack and higher groove line. Pull on good holds to the start of the closed crack. Bold poorly protected (tiny rippable RP and very poor micro cam) and difficult climbing leads to a ledge on the left, rest. Move back right and pull over the roof/groove onto another ledge on the left. Follow the poorly protected corner (unless you are willing to carry monster cams!) to exit left. Belay here on poor belays, or continue left for 15m over rotten granite. OR have a rope in-situ.FA Mark Edwards
TOP
Hella Point
The following route is found on the North Face.
Mark of my Beast E9 6c #
20m Another hard classic, and worthy neighbour to “Son of Satan”. Very bold climbing in a totally committing position, where protection placed on the lead can be best described as “decoration”. Start at ground zero and in the boulder filled channel at low tide. Climb to a small roof on the left of the wall. Arrange protection. Swing boldly right and follow the overhanging thin seam with powerful footless moves to make a big swing right to a flat hold (from here the next moves are serious and a fall is not an option). Now the crux, make a high and strenuous move to stand on the flat hold, and reach back down to place a small cam (not possible from the flat hold). Continue with difficulty up the seam above to exit via a wide crumbly crack in the upper wall. FA Mark Edwards (head-point) August 2002
Carn Guthenbras
Tuesday Evening Climb HVS 5a #
Climb the prominent crack between John Peel and Black and Tan, finish direct. FA G everitt,R everitt and chris griffiths spring 2001 (originally claimed by Paul Harrison solo 28.8.01, and called Perfectly Formed)The following routes are on the small wall at the right-hand end of the crag.
Un-Noticed Difficult
30 feet The cracks in the blunt arete left of Judgement Day. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: Barnaby Carver (solo) 24th February 2001. Climbed on-sight.Unrecorded Hard Severe 4c
30 feet The centre of the slab between Here's Laughing at You and Two Big Clean Breasts. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: Barnaby Carver (solo) 24th February 2001. Climbed on-sight.
Vessacks
Barcelona HVS 5b 4c ** #
130ft Low tide start essential. Start at the extreme seaward end of the cliff just above the barnacle line and follow this line leftwards with a hard move after 10 metres to gain a crackline. Swing around left again then climb a groove to just below the top then move left again and descend a groove to a ledge.Belay. Continue left and down slightly across a steep wall to reach thin ledges then continue left in a great position to the lefthand end of the cliff.
FA P O'Sullivan, C Griffiths 20th August 2000Vessacks West (O.S. Ref. 377 217)
The following route is located immediately left of ‘Elizabeth’ on the ‘Rock-pool Buttress’…
Margaret Very Severe 4c #
60ft On the narrow face that forms the left edge of the buttress is a large diagonal crack/groove, climb this for a short way to gain a small shallow corner on the left. Move right at the capping overlap using a good hold to gain another small corner leading up to the easy slab above. Follow the slab to the top.
First Recorded Ascent: Barnaby Carver, Miss Helen T. Pardoe. 15th September 2006.
Ascent Style: Climbed on-sight.The next route is to the right of ‘Saskia’ on the ‘Rock-pool Buttress’.
Time for Tiffin? Very Severe 4c #
55ft Step across the rock-pool and climb the steep crack that is 10 feet (3 metres) to the right of ‘Saskia’. At the top of the crack move left onto a ledge and continue more easily to the top.
First Recorded Ascent: Barnaby Carver, Miss Helen T. Pardoe. 3rd June 2006.
Ascent Style: Climbed on-sight.
Penberth Cove Area
"New routes have been climbed in the cove, two on the established crag (as described in the C.C. guide) and several on the other areas around the cove. All routes described here are above VS and therefore are “new” routes; The C.C. guide declares…”a large number of climbs graded from Difficult to Very Severe have been reported here…”and”...left for the curious to rediscover.” This is a shame, because the routes will be lost to history (and claimed as new routes in the future making more work for me!! - dave)." Note: details of routes that didn;t make the CC Guide can be found at http://www.bluedome.co.uk/Climbing/climjer.html.
PENBERTH WALLThis is the landward crag that is non-tidal and can be seen on the East Side of the cove.
Approach up the coastal path to the “crown of the headland” (C.C. guide), and descend right down a grassy gully and back right again to the base of the crag. Many lefts to right slanting cracks and seams, and a prominent roof can identify the crag. The routes are described from left to right.
In Solo Charge E1 5b #
Start at the left-hand side of the crag (looking in). Climbs the obvious left to right slanting crack and short groove, to the obvious off-width-finishing crack. FA Mark Edwards August 2002 (on-sight solo)Grazing Aliens E7 6c *** #
20m The main challenge; powering over the roof in the centre of the crag. Technical, testing moves with scant protection, micro-cams are useful. Start below the centre of the roof. Climb the lower wall via a horizontal crack to the roof. Arrange small cams for protection; pull out over the roof and make hard strenuous moves to get established on the upper wall. Protection and easier climbing leads to the top via a thin crack. FA Mark Edwards (after abseil inspection) August 2002Forty Nothing and still Smiling! HVS 4b #
20m A pleasant climb to an airy position above the central roof. Start up the short right-hand crack to join the roof at its right-hand end. Move up until it is possible to step left onto a narrow ledge. Make a move left again into a crack, and follow this line to the top. FA Mark Edwards & Harry Mason August 2002 (on-sight)Below these routes and down at sea level is a fine clean wall with a left to right diagonal crack/seam.
WKD! E3 5b * #
15mA virtually protection-less climb with a very hard granite landing. Climb the left to right seam, and stay with the seam till its end on blind under-clings. FA Mark Edwards (on-sight solo)Down to the left (looking out) on the “continuous 20m tower of delightful-ochre coloured rock” (C.C. guide); are a couple of new additions to the two routes described in the guide.
Headbirth E7 6c *** #
20m Breaths new life into an old 80s’ route. A hard direct start under and over the roof; tackling the main challenge “They Do at That Age” avoids. Start from a narrow ledge above a crystal clear pool. Climb to the roof and arrange small highly questionable protection in the very shallow seam. Pull hard directly over the roof and continue up the wider crack above, finish up the headwall right of the chimney, bold. FA Mark Edwards (after inspection) August 2002Bloodbath E4 6a * #
A climb of increasing difficulty and character. 20m Start up the right-hand crack (as for They Do at That Age), and continue to a sloping ledge. Arrange protection, and swing left around the arete to make a hard move into the start of a shallow crack. Follow the crack to a large break and spike.( alternative finish: move left and finish up the chimney at E2 5c)…OR…Arrange protection, and pull up with commitment into the wide crack on the right of the arete above, and follow with difficulty to the top. FA Mark Edwards (on-sight) August 2002On the West Side of the cove a hard climb has been found above the popular fishermen’s ledge. Follow the coastal footpath west, to a small path running along the edge of the cove. This descends onto the fisherman's ledge. The first obvious feature is…
Fat Crack E1 5a #
10m This climbs the obvious off-width-slanting crack on the arete. The grade can be reduced if extremely large cams are used! FA Mark Edwards (on-sight solo) August 2002September Sessions E7 6c *** #
10m This extended boulder problem is up the black streak and thin over-hanging crack on the seaward face just left of East Side Story. Although short in stature, this climb packs in a lot of climbing! From the very first move make hard moves to gain the thin and very shallow crack. Finish up this with great difficulty. FA Mark Edwards (head-point solo) September 2002Follow the fishermans path past September Sessions until a proud buttress of rock is seen forming a small headland. On the back of the butress, first seen on arrival, is a leftwards slanting groove/ramp above a slippery cleft.
Slim Shady VS 5A
30ft Make a tricky bold step across on greasy (probably wet) rock to gain better holds. Follow rampline leftwards of a small overlap to easier climbing. FA Chris Hall Solo May 2003The Jim Beam Experience E2 6B
30ft On the SW face at the left hand side is a short overhang above a crap landing. Make dissproportianately hard moves utilising a tiny crystal somewhere to gain a flake on the lip which is followed easily to top. Pat your self on the back for that one. FA Chris Hall Solo May 2003Squirrel Nut Chickens HS 4C
30ft Follow rightwards slanting break to good holds and take shallow corner up flakes and cracks above.Eat on Nun HS 4C
30ft Right of previous route is another line of flakes. Approach from below up steep wall on good holds (or easier traverse in from break). Continue up flakes to tricky move up rounded boulder on top.
St Levans Wall Area
Midway between Levans Wall (Upper Tier) and Marconi Slab is a jumble of giant boulders, containing a deep, tidal chasm (dry about 3 hours either side of low tide). This contains:
The Similar Brothers E2 5c ** #
35ft On the landward side of the chasm is a very obvious crack/groove. Climb it steeply, but with excellent protection, to the top. Sustained and excellent. Very damp on the first ascent, thus climbed in less than impeccable style! FA Rik Meek, Pete O'Sullivan 06/05/01 Note: The Similar Brothers has had a repeat ascent, confirming the grade and suggesting that it might be worth three starsAnd just to the right of Marconi Slab are:
Twink Severe 4a #
10 metres Start up the groove 4 metres right of Tina Turner, moving right at half height to climb the continuation groove and rugged arete. FA Martin Dunning, Brian Hannon 3 June 2001Dick Van Dyke Very Severe 4c #
10 metres Just right of Twink is a slab leading to some airy moves up the steep black chimney. FA Martin Dunning, Brian Hannon 3 June 2001Tweak E1 5b #
10 metresTakes the arete with a distinctive sloping ledge at half height, 5 metres right of Dick Van Dyke. Difficult moves with dodgy gear, and a tweak on the protuberant tip of the ledge, lead to easier climbing above. FA Brian Hannon, Martin Dunning 3 June 2001The following route is on the main area of the crag:
Whitebait E2 5c #
The tempting but short flake crack 3 metres right of Redfish is climbed to a horizontal break. Make a couple of difficult moves left before moving up and right to climb the easier slab. It is possible to climb directly above the flake crack at about 6a (not led). FA Brian Hannon, Rik Meek, Martin Dunning, Pete O'Sullivan 3 June 2001LOWER TIER
To the right of the groove of Panos is an open slab, brown at the bottom and silver-grey higher up. Captain Chaos takes the right arete of this slab, pulling through the overhang (and is in the wrong order in the existing guide.) The following route climbs the slab.
Bandwagon 13 metres E1 5b #
Start at the bottom left corner of the slab, and follow a line up and rightwards, finishing up good flake cracks. FA Andy March, Justin Ford, Bob Bennett, Gareth Palmer (27/02/05)
Cribba Head
Cropper Buttress
Cool Corner 17 metres VS 4c #
Climbs the corners just right of The Harvest. Climb easily to a good spike below the lower corner. Up this to ledges, then take the widening crack in the final corner to the top. FA Andy March, Luke Pavey, 9th March 2002
Boscawen Point
(p195 of South Coast part of the latest CC West Penwith guide)
Lower Tier Below the start of ‘Lucretia’ is a sloping ledge leading to the top of the lower tier buttress where the following routes can be found on a short (8-10m) wall. The base can be reached by an easy absail or a short scramble down the gully on the right (facing out). Here ledges give easy access to a number of short but enjoyable routes in the lower grades. Whilst not tidal the ledges are probably affected by a large swell at high tide.
The routes are described from left to right (facing in) and were all climbed on 28 April 2002
Leuc Left Diff #
9 metres Obvious crack in the LH side of the wall. FA Andy Pemberton, Katharine Woods 28 April 2002My Name is Luka Diff #
10 metres The obvious black corner on the left of the prominent nose of rock. FA Dan Lear, Nicky Beaumont 28 April 2002Leucky Deucky V.Diff #
10 metres Corner crack on the right of the prominent nose. FA Dan Lear, Nicky Beaumont 28 April 2002Leuc Right Hard Severe #
10 metres Twin cracks on the RH side of the face to a rounded finish. FA Andy Pemberton, Katharine Woods 28 April 2002Around the arete from ‘Leuc right’ is a steep black wall:
Leucerator Severe 4a #
10 metres Climb the left-hand side of the black wall on large sharp holds. Step right onto the face to finish. FA Dan Lear, Nicky Beaumont 28 April 2002Approx 6m further right is:
Leuk Before You Leap V.Diff #
10 metres Nice little route, first on weird black holds, then taking the left slanting crack. FA Katharine Woods, Andy PembertonRight again is an inset slab:
Luke No Hands Diff #
10 metres Climb the thin corner crack on the left hand side of the slab. Once above the corner follow the crack up the headwall. FA Dan Lear, Nicky Beaumont 28 April 2002
Bashers Harbour
Bashers Harbour - The Edwards' new routes. I will try and sort these out onto one page soon!
Cave Buttress
Dai Trewallard E3 6a #
50 ft The blunt arete between the Mince Pie Problem and Cave Buttress. (1 Peg Runner). FA Goi Ashmore, Roy Thomas August 2002Sharpy The Cereal Poisoner E2 6a #
50ft The route over the overlaps right of the HS. FA Goi Ashmore, Roy Thomas August 2002Footloose Area
Three new routes have been climbed to the left of “Footloose” slab and take the obvious lines centred on the arete. The routes are described from right to the left.
Spanish Knights E3 5c ** #
30m Start up the obvious vertical crack left of the “Footloose” start. Pull over onto the slab, and climb the thinner crack up the slab towards the arete. Climb the arete until it is possible to follow a crack line finish up the left side to the top. FA Mark Edwards August 2002 (on-sight)Marble Harbour E5 6a *** #
30mTakes the arete direct and boldly. Start up the next thin line/seam to the left of “Spanish Knights”; micro protection and bold climbing. Climb the seam until its end, and swing powerfully right to better holds. Follow the thin crack line onto the slab, and climb diagonally right to the arete. Follow the arete direct to a junction with “Spanish Knights”, and finish up the left side crack line as for “Spanish Knights”. FA Mark Edwards August 2002Magnetic Variation E2 5b ** #
30m A more direct line up the area of rock which “South without Scott” is thought to have taken. Climb boldly the sloping stepped ledges to a thin crack in a groove. Pull up and right into a steep layback crack that leads to the arete. Follow the arete on the right side, before stepping onto the left at the top to finish. FA Mark Edwards & Harry Mason August 2002 (on-sight)The next routes are within the cave right of The Sea for Breakfast, and described from left to right:
Cave Groove Direct VS 4c * #
20mA fine open groove climb capped by an overhang. Start within the cave entrance, and climb up into the groove via a ledge. Follow the groove to the roof and pull strenuously around this to finish up a short crack to the top. FA Mark Edwards & Harry Mason August 2002 (on-sight)London Bride E6 6b *** #
20m A brilliant and rewarding climb, tackling two contrasting halves in climbing styles. Start within the cave as for Cave Groove direct. Break out right to make a difficult move into the right-hand square-cut hanging groove. Climb the groove to the roof, and move right into another similar groove. From here pull out left onto the open face, and climb delicately and boldly to the capping roof. Pull through the roof via a hanging short groove to finish. FA Mark Edwards August 2002 (on-sight)Marbles Arch E6 6b *** #
20mAstonishing climbing, tackling steep overhanging rock with a unique finish full of character. This climb, powers up the right wall (looking-in) of the cave and the chimney above. Start below an obvious overhanging crack-line on the right wall. Climb onto a ledge, and pull powerfully around a small roof to enter the crack. Follow the crack to a pod recess. Move up and out right to make a committing reach across the void to the opposite wall of the cave. Wild bridging turns to narrower and narrower chimney technique, to make a final move out of the lip of the cave and finish. FA Mark Edwards August 2002 (on-sight)
Trewavas Head
Figurehead E3 5c 60ft #
Essentially a direct finish through the large roof at the top of The Bowsprit - it overhangs some 12 feet in a 40 foot section!.(which has itself been substantially cleaned up). After the first overhang, where the parent route disappears left, instead scuttle rightwards to the arete, where a good no-hands rest can be achieved with some imagination. Then take the seven foot flat roof direct at its widest point, past two very pleasant protuberances at the lip, on big but flat holds. FA Martin Jones and Dan KinnairdMartin also points out that there is some fine Deep water soloing at Rinsey Beach (the lovely cove directly below the Trewavas car park). "Despite being relatively compact, with routes up to 30’ high and mainly in the lower grades (up to 5c, but with potential for higher/harder routes in the back of the zawn), this deserves to become a popular stopping point on the way back from the crag. All the climbing is located in one inlet, on the right of the beach (looking out) past a large flat rock shelf. Two-thirds height and upwards. Very, very nice."
The Lizard
Vellan Head | Hollywood Walls | Pen Olver | Amnesty Wall | Bass Point | Carn Barrow | The Grove | Black Head
This area is covered by the South Coast volume of West Cornwall guide.
Vellan Head
A big rockfall has taken some of True North (pitch 2 the top of the corner); Beauty and the Beast and The Falconer may also have been affected.
Serpentine Ridge Mild XS 5c 500 feet #
The crest of a dramatic knife-edge ridge north of Vellan Head on the Lizard. One of the longest and most striking lines in South Cornwall. Mostly technically easy climbing on rock varying from reasonable to attrocious. The crux involves a precarious mantle onto a rotten pillar... The best protection came from 16 foot slings draped over the crest. FA Steve Findlay and John Alcock August 2003 (on-sight)Africa Slabs Area
This newly developed area lies on the west side of Vellan Head itself, which is some 500 metres west of the established climbing on Hidden Buttress. The headland consists of a broad, broken ridge, easy-angled at first but steepening and narrowing as it descends. The east side (left facing out) is made up of slabs broken by horizontal breaks.
Scramble easily down broken rocks on the West side of the headland to a terrace above more substantial gentle slabs. Continue down diagonally left to a spur which allows easy access to the base of the cliff. Ledges (sea-washed at half tide or when a big sea is running) lead back right towards the overhanging seaward nose of Vellan Head itself. At higher tides, a straightforward abseil from blocks on the crest of the ridge lands on ledges just East of the nose.
The East side of Vellan Head consists of an area of seemingly easy-angled slabs - Africa Slabs extending for 150 metres, where a number of low to mid grade routes have been climbed.
The Nose itself is much steeper, the most obvious feature being the series of slanting offset corners taken by Hacuna.
Hacuna * E4 6a, 4a 40 metres 03-02-2007
Pitch 1: 25m 6a. Pull steeply up the first overhanging corner to a resting ledge below the next offset corner. Tenuous moves up this lead to better holds up and to the right. Move right to the next corner and climb this to pull out onto the crest of the ridge. Belay on a large ledge 5m up the ridge. It is possible to scramble off to the right.
Pitch 2: 15m 4a. Climb the crack above then the more broken rocks above.First Ascent: P. R. Littlejohn, I. M. Peters – 03-02-2007.
On sight, ground up ascent. No fixed gear.
Matata E3 5c 40 metres 03-02-2007
Approach as for Hacuna. The route takes the steep wall and blunt rib 5 metres left of the corner of Kalahari (see below). Start at the base of the wall below a horizontal crack and roof at 6 metres Gain the crack, then move left to the rib. Pull steeply over the small roof (crux) and climb diagonally up and right to the base of a shallow groove just left of the rib. Follow the groove and pull over to better holds. Easier climbing leads to ledges and a belay. The crux is well protected by Friends, but spaced protection above.First Ascent: P. R. Littlejohn, I. M. Peters – 03-02-2007
Kalahari Very Severe 4c 40 metres 09-2005
Approach as described for Hacuna. The route takes the first obvious groove to the right of the conspicuous stepped corners of Hacuna. Climb the groove, moving onto the left wall where the groove curves to the left. Steeper moves on flakes lead to an easing of the angle. Continue direct to the crest of the ridge.First Ascent: I. M. Peters, D. Hillebrandt, B. Peters. – September 2005.
Shark's Fin * Hard Very Severe 4c 40 metres 09-2005
The next major feature to the right of the Kalahari groove is a slanting roof at 18 metres. Start below the roof. Climb slabby rock at first on the right then up and left onto a sloping ledge beneath the left side of the roof. Move left around the rib and then climb the steep arête on good holds to finish up a shallow corner in the slabs above. An enjoyable route despite a distinct lack of protection.First Ascent: I. M. Peters, D. Hillebrandt, B. Peters. – September 2005.
Liberia Severe 4a 30 metres 09-2005
Start as for previous routes. Avoids the slanting roof by a line at its right hand end. Start at the base of a shallow groove below the roof. Climb easily up the groove, stepping right below the roof and move up right to gain easier slabby rock, leading to ledges and nut belays. Sparsely protected but straightforward when dry, lethal if wet!First Ascent: I. M. Peters, B. Peters, D. Hillebrandt. – September 2005.
Hollywood Walls
Jive Pansy HVS 5a * #
Steep climbing, but the holds and protection are very good. 65 ft Start as for The Goldrush, but instead of traversing right climb straight up the overhanging wall to reach the base of a thin crack in the slab above. Climb the crack to finish. FA Brian Hannon, Martin Dunning and Pete O'Sullivan 30/1/2005Ridley Scott HVS 5a #
Start at the apex of the recessed slab right of Limelight. Pull over the slight bulge on the left and move left and up past a good thread. Continue left across the tops of the flake pinnacles to meet a right to left rising crack line. Follow the crack line to the top. FA Ian King & David Issitt 20 May 07.
Pen Olver
(page 260)
Les Grands Pifs Severe #
15m. Start 2m right of "Descent Route". Climb the twin "nostril" cracks below the obvious nose. Climb the crack on the LHS of the bridge of the nose and continue up the arete to block belays at the top. FA Mick Cooke, Barry Issitt, David Issitt 11/08/04.Anne's Famous Pasty Shop E4 5c ish #
A steep little chap which is also a tad scary - the crux section is protected by RP's which are not completely above suspicion. A Friend #0 will also come in handy. 35ft Just to the left of The Womb Tomb is a blatantly obvious and steep arete. Start to the right of the arete and climb direct to gain thin crack on the right. Arrange gear then move left to the arete, which is climbed to gain good flat jugs a little higher (RP's). Move up the arete above and around to the left side, which is climbed to the top. FA Dave Henderson, Carrie Hill 5.5.2001 (abseiled first)The Giant Carrot E1 5b ** #
75ft The obvious, striking arete right of The Womb Tomb. An excellent route. Start below the arete down left of the roof. Climb the wall just left of the arete to good small wires. Move right out to the arete itself, using footholds above the roof. Finish up the delightful slabby arete. FA Dave Pickford, Mike Robertson, May 2006 (Climbed onsight no inspection)Lily's Velvet Claw Hard Severe #
50ft . Climb the claw shaped crack 2m left of "Vumba" to just short of the arete of "Songs From a Gentle Man". Then make ab airy nove left to the arete and follow this to the top. FA David Issitt, Barry Issitt, Mick Cooke 11/08/04. (may be the same as the following route)Prorper Jawb VS 4c #
Takes crack line up steep wall right of Vumba. 50ft Boldly climb up jugs to small ledge through bulge. Step left and go up the wall to a large break finishing slightly rightwards. FA Chris Hall and S Edwards 17.12.02Next two routes take the wall and slab between Letting Go and Great Slanting.
Loner Happy E1 5C #
40ft Boulder out centre of bulging wall on small holds and a long reach, continue up easier slab to finish. FA Chris Hall (solo) 5.12.02Socially Sad HS 4a
40ft Gain ledge at head height and tackle bulge above slightly rightwards to finish direct up slab. FA Chris Hall (solo) 5.12.02Tidal Look HVS 4c 50ft The wall between Salt Heart and Mule. Climb steep wall onto slab to gain ledge. Move leftwards and climb crozzly crack in steep headwall above.
Over by the pinnacle on the east side is:
Darn Tarn HVS 4c #
40ft The thin crack line up friable rock to the right of Down the Welly. FA Chris Hall and Barnaby Carver 11.02On the flat topped pinnacle:
One Arm Bandit HVS 5A
40ft Good slots and flakes lead steeply up the E face until moves up and right gain the arete and black slab which leads easily to the top. FA Chris Hall and Sion Edwards 03/05/03 .
Amnesty Wall
(page264) An excellent wall!
Alabama Thunderpussy E3 5b (*/**!) #
Climbs the hanging arete right of Amnesty. 1) 70ft Start R of Amnesty at the foot of the arete. Climb up to join that route at a spike, then traverse rightwards with hands on good ledges and feet on the lip, to the arete. Make an exposed move up the arete and follow this to the top. FA Chris Snell, Tom "the tongue" Rainbow 21.7.2001Cian E4 5c (***) #
Another superb route on this exceptional wall combines the winning formula of steepish climbing and good holds... and it's safe! 1) 70ft Start just left of International, from the raised corner of the ledge. Climb the wall for 20 feet until a move up right gains the base of a leftward slanting crack. Follow this (plenty of gear) to where it ends, beneath a tiny left-facing groove. Move up to the groove and climb it to a good jug. Steeper climbing on positive holds leads through a bulge more or less direct to the top. FA Dave Henderson, Carrie Hill (onsight) 6.5.2001
Carn Barrow
(GR720139)
A reasonable new crag on The Lizard, with more middle grade potential
Approach: 10 -15 minutes - Park in Cadgwith and follow the coast path West. Pass the Devil's Frying Pan, and then a white house inland. The remains of a wall soon appear on the hillside below. Go down to the right hand end of this (facing out) and then contour back left until a cliff-top platform, with obvious blocks, is visible below. This is the abseil point. An easy abseil reaches a large rock platform below the crag.
The first route takes the obvious groove/corner line near the right hand end.
Shrink Wrapped VS 4c #
75 ft Climb just right of the obvious corner, using it for protection. At its end, move into the steeper continuation groove, pass a roof and reach the top. FA Brian Hannon, Rik Meek, Pete O'Sullivan 17/02/02The next route follows the large slab to the left.
Freeze Dried VS 4b #
75 ft Climb straight up the slab slightly left of centre. Pass the obvious roof on the left. Not particularly well protected - it is probably possible to climb the slab anywhere at about the same grade. FA Brian Hannon, Rik Meek, Pete O'Sullivan 17/02/02The final route is the best of the three and gives relatively straightforward climbing in poorly protected and exposed positions. It is reached by traversing left from the platform, at high tide level, for about 20 ft, to reach a small ledge at the base of an obvious short arête.
Vacuum Packed E1 5a #
80 ft Climb the initial arête steeply to reach a large black slab between the layers of roofs. Follow this easily to its apex and make exposed moves up and then left to an awkward, rounded finish. Bold. FA Brian Hannon, Rik Meek 17/02/02
Bass Point
Perfect Storm E5 6a **
Steep & exciting though low in the grade. 30m E of the great cleft containing the arch is a steep wall split centrally by a crack and bounded on the L by a blind corner. The route takes the buttress/arête immediately L of the corner. 90ft Climb a groove for a few ft then swing R on to the arête. Pull up to a horizontal crack then trend R up the steep wall and span across to the corner to rest. Move back L and up on improving holds to the bulging upper prow. Reach a shelf high on the L then swing R on big flat holds to regain the arête which is followed to the top. FA May 24, 2006 P Littlejohn, D Garner
The Grove
GR 792193
This is a newly developed crag. 1 km NW of Coverack sits a small buttress of excellent quality Gabbro. Set back from the sea the easiest approach is by a mild bush whack from round the back! All three routes are short but are well worthwhile if in the area.
South Face S 4a
25ft Gain hanging ramp then climb slightly rightwards on hidden finger jugs up wall. Reach break and finish up crack. Variations exist, just follow the holds. FA Chris Hall (solo) 11.02Big Chief HS 4b
25ft Step onto nose and climb via bouldery moves. Surmount top of the semi detached pinnacle and pull over forehead to the top. FA Chris Hall (solo) 11.02East Face VS 5a 25ft The best of the bunch. Climb blankish wall on perfect rock and perfect holds. After a technical undercut move and stretch for the break finish slightly leftwards. FA Chris Hall (solo) 11.02
Black Head
From the disused coastguard lookout descend onto the headland, as for the approach to the main cliff. This route lies some 75 metres below the lookout, on the small cliff to the right of the descent path.
Pustule E3 6a #
40ft Start from a flat boulder beneath the centre of the face. Climb up on flattish holds to the left of the small central prow. Make a hard move to gain the start of the main L to R slanting crack and move up and right to a resting position on top of the prow. Follow the easier but still steep crack to the top. F.A. Brian Hannon, Rik Meek and Martin Dunning.