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WEST CORNWALL - SOUTH COAST
North Coast | The Lizard (now on separate pages)
Guidebook: West Cornwall Authors/Year: loads (edited by Nigel Coe) 2001 Publisher: The Climbers' Club
Cornish Rock by Rowland Edwards, Tim Dennel and Mark Edwards
A selection of the best routes in the area can also be found in South West Climbs by Pat Littlejohn (Diadem)
Further details on the area
Carn Les Boel
Pellitras Point (separate page)
Black Carn North, Blocks Promontory (separate page)
Zawn Rinny (Chair Ladder)
St. Levan's Wall
Porthguarnon East (new page)
# - unconfirmed!
Green Eyes HVS 5a #
20m Start below the rightward slanting open groove/crackline left of "Amigos" on the East Face of The Green Face. Climb the groove line for 5m to pull onto a big ledge. Climb the deep groove above to the top of the pinnacle.FA Mark Edwards (on-sight solo)
Granite Gorilla E6 6b #
15m This takes the wall and big obvious roof right of Mr. Haggis. Climb the centre of the wall below the roof, and pull out wildly to the lip. Cut free (bold) and pull hard to reach a flake. Follow direct up the wall passing horizontal cracks to the top. FA Mark Edwards
"Note: Mr. Haggis and Ella-phant are the same line... one being H. Severe and the other E1 5b! Elle-phant is claimed in 1994 and Mr. Haggis was first in 1985! We must have been climbing harder grades in those days..." (Mark Edwards)
Carn Boels Upper
A very pleasing area to climb in away from the crowds and with astonishing sea and cliff views. The cliff is south west facing so gets the sun all day, it is also a cliff where one can climb during the winter when the wind is coming from the north or east. One can climb here any time as it is well above the sea.
The rock is perfect granite, typical of Cornish climbing. Most of the climbing on the upper tier is of the higher grade for those seeking easier climbing then the lower tier is where they would go.
Approach from the Lands End car park . Follow the track for 1.5 mls to the last headland looking into Nangizal bay. Walk down the back of the headland and around its base on the left side to below the cliff.
Routes are described from right to left.
Micro Arête Hard Severe 4b #
This is the first steep arête you see, as you approach the crag, on the right behind the main crag.25ft. Start below the arête and climb the left edge of the slab by its arête. Once on top either descend the slot behind or continue 25ft to belays on the block above. F.A. R Edwards 24th Jan 2006
Bold but True E4/5 6a #
40ft A bold and exposed climb.Start on the large boulder right of the obvious large corner. Climb off the boulder onto the arête and follow this to the roof. Continue up the crack to the top. F.A. R Edwards 27th Jan 2006.
Drifters E1 5b+ ** #
40 ft A fine climb which is deceptively difficult. Start below the obvious corner on the left. Climb the corner to the roof and then right under the roof to the arête. Climb the crack to the top. First recorded Ascent. R Edwards 1979 NB. This corner had previously been climbed using pegs and bolts going left across wall and also going right on pegs.
Heart of Stone E5 6a *** #
40ft A very sustained and technical climb. Start directly below the small overhang on the right of the main wall. Using the crack climb onto the short slab on the left. Cross this below the roof to the far side and pull over the roof onto the wall above. Traverse immediately rightwards to the arête then direct to the top. F.A. R Edwards 1982
Grinder E2 5b** #
35ft Quite a sustained route. Start at the left hand side of the wall. Climb the crack right of the large boulder. Continue up the crack until a move right leads into the crack on the right. Follow this to the top. First Recorded Ascent. R Edwards 1982. Previously climbed with peg and bolts
The Drum Hard Very Severe 5b. ** #
Start as for the previous route. 35ft 5b. Climb the crack right of the block and continue up the crack directly up the wall to the top. F.A. R Edwards 1982 Possibly climbed before but not recorded?
Bus Stop Very Difficult #
30ft. Climb the left side of the boulder then the left side of the wall to the roof. Move right to the top. irst Recorded Ascent. R Edwards 1982 Possibly climbed before but not recorded?
Chimney route Very Difficult #
100ft Start at the large boulder. 1.20ft. Climb the left side of the boulder and enter the chimney. Belay possible. 2.80ft. Walk into the right hand chimney and climb directly up the left wall through the boulders above.
Password E1 5b* #
Spectacular finish.Start below the overhanging wall on the left.40 ft Climb groove and crack to the steep wall above . Climb the overhanging crack until a move right to follow a rightwards slanting crack to the hanging chimney. Climb up this and the boulders above to the top. F.A. R Edwards. 23.7.2006.
Palace-walk E5 6c*** #
30ft Excellent crack climbing, sustained. Start below the groove just right of the left edge of the wall. Climb the groove and crack to reach the overhanging crack which goes directly up the wall, followed this to the top. F.A. M Edwards. 10.8.2006.
Cathedral of the Sea E7 6b *** #
30ft A spectacular climb taking the obvious overhanging arête on the left of the wall. Climb the steep wall and the overhanging arête to the top. F.A. M Edwards. 20-7-2006.
Weatherman E3 6a ** #
30ft Steep and strenuous climbing. Start on the left side of the crag. Climb the boulder to below the overhanging wall and crack. Climb the crack to the large ledge, up the short wall to the top. F.A. R Edwards. 1982.
Carn Les Boel
Its a Blue Planet E2 5b #
47 metres Superb climbing up the prominent pillar just right of Bosistow Chimney, finish up the final crack of The Ramp (HVS 4c) on poor rock. FA Paul Harrison, Graham Sutton 29.8.01
Hookers Haven E8/9 6c ** #
A very bold lead with a very serious ground fall should the marginal tied down sky hook rip during a fall. Takes the quartz seam to the right of Sewing Machine Man, and then the central wall above. The crux requires cool conditions for max. friction on the slopers. FA Mark Edwards Summer 2000
Peel Arête 50ft Hard Very Difficult #
Start right of the start of Peel crack on the right edge of the wall. 1) 50ft. Climb the juggy wall to the ledge then climb up to the arête and follow this to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 28/2/2006
Routes right side of Glass Arête area.
Wave Crest Hard Severe 4b #
Start in the gully to the right of Glass arête. 40ft) 4b.Climb either up the gully direct or up the left side onto the ledge. Traverse right into the steep groove and up this to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 24/11/005
City Slicker Very Severe 5a #
40ft) 5a.Start in the gully as above to the ledge. Move right to the base of a slab and climb the faint cracks to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 24/11/005
Left side of the main cliff, left of Raindancer.
Outer Edge E1 5b #
Start at the left side of the wall just to the right of the easy way down and below a wide crack. 55ft Climb the wide crack for a few feet until a move right onto the face. Climb the steep juggy wall to the roof. Pull over this to the ledge and a crack leading right, follow this to a good ledge. Climb a series of short wall to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 4/12/005
Light Foot E1/2 5b #
Start from the top of the largest boulder beneath the centre of the wall. 55ft. Step off the boulder into the shallow groove to a ledge. Climb the steep wall to the next fault and move up left to a crack sloping leftwards. Follow this to the big ledge. Climb the short walls leading to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 4/12/005.
Sea Biscuit E2 5b #
Start from the top of the largest boulder below the centre of the wall. Step off the boulder onto the steep wall, with a faint crack in it and two shallow pockets on the right, which leads to the obvious ledge. Climb directly over the roof onto the wall above with a rightwards sloping crack, which is followed to the big ledge. Short walls lead to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards 4/12/2005
Lower Carn Barra (The Other Block).
This is a small buttress below the platform of the Grand Plage area. Although quite short the routes do give good value. A low tide is essential.
Approach. Once on the platform below Grand Plage walk to the left side (facing out) and the buttress is immediately below you.
Jug Wall Very Severe 4c #
20ft) Climb the left side of the block first up the short wall then the wall above to the middle ledge. Climb the cracks in the wall above. F.A. Rowland Edwards 29/1/2006
Barnacle Arete E1 5b #
20ft) Start below the arête in the centre of the wall. Climb the steep wall just left of the faint cracks and then continue up the arête above. 5b climbing only on the initial moves. FA. R Edwards. 29/1/2000
Slanting Crack E1 5b/c #
20ft) Start at the right side below the chimney. Climb the chimney for a short way then move left to gain the cracks which are followed to the top.F.A. Rowland Edwards 29/1/2006.
The Chimney Very Difficult #
20ft) Climb into the chimney and then using the crack on the right climb to the top. F.A. Rowland Edwards. 29/1/2006.
Three addition to add to the climbs in this superb Zawn.
All these routes can be approached as from the bottom of the Zawn, when the tide is at its lowest, or by abseil to the first belay ledge.
Another Sixteen Years On E3 4a, 5c 170 ft #
Excellent climbing with a great zawn atmosphere. 1.20 ft 4a. From the base of the wall step off the boulders onto a juggy wall , Belay on the wide ledge. 2. 150 ft 5c. ( 110 ft of climbing). Climb the steep wall on the left and enter the thin crack line on the right, follow this to the roof on its left. Climb over this, using good but well spaced holds, onto the wall above. Continue direct then slightly right and climb the short teep bulges to reach the top. Belays are well back on the large black. First ascent. R Edwards. K Thomas 15th August 2003
Deep Cut Hard Very Severe 4a, 5a 170 ft #
A far better climb than appearances suggest. A classic line. Some care with the rock is needed although this will settle down once it has had a number of ascents. 1. 20 ft 4a. From the base of the wall step off the boulders onto a juggy wall , Belay on the wide ledge. 2. Move right and climb the groove to enter the deep crack above. Follow this to just below the top when a move left can be made to climb the short steep wall above. Belays well back. FA R Edwards K Thomas 15th August 2003.
Little Cut Hard Severe 4a,4b 170 ft #
1.20 ft 4a. From the base of the wall step off the boulders onto a juggy wall , Belay on the wide ledge. 2. 150 ft. Move right onto the far ledges. Climb up and right to enter the steep crack and follow the corner and short wall to the top. Belay well back. FA Rowland Edwards 29th August 2003.
Bones E6 6b 5c #
45m Start below the overhanging wall left of "Eat 'em and Smile". Climb the centre of the overhanging wall via a seam and passing horizontal breaks. Pull boldly and direct up the final wall to rock precariously onto the sloping ledge. Belay at back of ledge. Climb a second pitch 5c 20m up the cracks on the right. FA Mark Edwards (second pitch soloed) Summer 2004
Approach. Park in the car park at Porthgwarra (pay and display). Walk up the narrow road to the gate. A little further on a track leads off right ( The Coastal path). Follow this to Zawn Kellies.
Walk in descent. Traverse the edge of the cliff top left towards the deep gully on the left. This can be descended with care. It is usually wet. At the bottom go right along the boulder beach to the obvious arête of Genesis.
In many areas of the zawn the rock is desperately loose, in others it is superb. All of the climbs here keep to this excellent rock. Many of the routes have been created by wave erosion so one must expect some changes as time takes its toll.
The first aret is taken by Genesis E4 6a. A superbly steep face and overhanging crack climb. To the left of this is another arête with a small slab at its base. This is No Hostages E3 5c. A really varied climb on excellent rock. The next arête left, with a large roof at its base, is another superb line called A Senior Moment E2/3 5b/c. Just to the left of this is a large roof leading onto a steep black wall. This is taken by Magicos Negro E3 5c.
Genesis E4 6a #
A sensational overhanging crack climb. The base of the climb is quite ‘flaky’ but once you are established on the route the rock is very good, particularly in its upper section. Start at the base of the steep large blade of rock with an obvious crack on its right face.1) 100 ft. Climb the crack to a good ledge. Climb the steep wall to the roof with a superb crack in it. Pull over this onto the steep wall above and follow the crack to just below the top. Move right and then back left to exit onto the grassy hillside. Belays are the large boulder embedded in the hillside. First ascent. R Edwards I Blake. 3rd Novemebr 2005.
No Hostages E3 5c #
Another superb line with varied climbing. Start below the next arête below a steep slab. 1) 60 ft. Climb the slab to the roof and pull over this onto a small ledge on the left. Move left and enter a groove which is climbed to a small ledge. Climb the steep wall and thin crack to the roof. Traverse left into the wide crack. Climb the very steep crack going up the centre of the wall. A mantelshelf is made at the top to eventually reach a lower off. Peg and long sling (this may be replaced by SS pegs). A continuation has been climbed to the top (for the purists) but is very loose and not worth while. F.A. Rowland Edwards (solo). 18th November 2005
A Senior Moment E3 5c #
Excellent climbing in a great ‘out there’ position. Excellent rock although the last few moves at the top are a bit loose but safe. This route starts at the base of the next arête with the large overhang at its base. 1) 110 ft 5c. Climb the cracks to the roof and traverse boldly left to the arête. Climb this to the steep slab. At its top step out onto the arête proper and follow this to ledges just below the top. Climb up these onto the grass above and belays in the boulders behind. F.A. Rowland Edwards (solo) 9th Novemeber 2005.
Magicos Negro E3 5c #
A superb climb. Start left of A Senior Moment, below a very sharp overhang. 1) 110ft 5c. Climb the groove right of the roof and step left below it to the edge. Make a bold move left onto the black face. Move left into the faint cracks and follow these until a move right is made and then up to the sloping ledge. Belay Possible. Step down and climb round the arête onto good but small ledges. Climb the slab; at its top step out left onto the arête proper and follow this to ledges just below the top. Climb up these onto the grass above and belays in the boulders behind. F.A. Rowland Edwards( solo) 25th November 2005
Shark Alley E5 6a #
100 ft Step off the "bridge boulder" that spans the gap to Bulging Wall area. Traverse to a totally blind and sweaty move around the blunt left arete, and swing boldly into the back of the black (normally wet) chimney. And shuffle up this at VS!....not. FA Mark Edwards & Kevin Thomas (his second new route). (on sight)
The Special Society Crack E3 5a 5c #
190 ft Basically takes a traverse of the north walls of Rinny Zawn to a reasonable ledge belay below the obvious crack system on the overhanging buttress left of Human Skewer. FA Mark Edwards & Kevin Thomas (on sight)
Pixie Dust Corner E7/8 6b #TOP
Start right of Human Skewer and just left of the entrance to the deep cave. 30m Start below an obvious crack and higher groove line. Pull on good holds to the start of the closed crack. Bold poorly protected (tiny rippable RP and very poor micro cam) and difficult climbing leads to a ledge on the left, rest. Move back right and pull over the roof/groove onto another ledge on the left. Follow the poorly protected corner (unless you are willing to carry monster cams!) to exit left. Belay here on poor belays, or continue left for 15m over rotten granite. OR have a rope in-situ. FA Mark Edwards
The following route is found on the North Face.
Mark of my Beast E9 6c #
20m Another hard classic, and worthy neighbour to “Son of Satan”. Very bold climbing in a totally committing position, where protection placed on the lead can be best described as “decoration”. Start at ground zero and in the boulder filled channel at low tide. Climb to a small roof on the left of the wall. Arrange protection. Swing boldly right and follow the overhanging thin seam with powerful footless moves to make a big swing right to a flat hold (from here the next moves are serious and a fall is not an option). Now the crux, make a high and strenuous move to stand on the flat hold, and reach back down to place a small cam (not possible from the flat hold). Continue with difficulty up the seam above to exit via a wide crumbly crack in the upper wall. FA Mark Edwards (head-point) August 2002
Tuesday Evening Climb HVS 5a #
Climb the prominent crack between John Peel and Black and Tan, finish direct. FA G everitt,R everitt and chris griffiths spring 2001 (originally claimed by Paul Harrison solo 28.8.01, and called Perfectly Formed)
The following routes are on the small wall at the right-hand end of the crag.
30 feet The cracks in the blunt arete left of Judgement Day. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: Barnaby Carver (solo) 24th February 2001. Climbed on-sight.
Un-Recorded Hard Severe 4c
30 feet The centre of the slab between Here's Laughing at You and Two Big Clean Breasts. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: Barnaby Carver (solo) 24th February 2001. Climbed on-sight.
Barcelona HVS 5b 4c ** #
130ft Low tide start essential. Start at the extreme seaward end of the cliff just above the barnacle line and follow this line leftwards with a hard move after 10 metres to gain a crackline. Swing around left again then climb a groove to just below the top then move left again and descend a groove to a ledge.Belay. Continue left and down slightly across a steep wall to reach thin ledges then continue left in a great position to the lefthand end of the cliff.
FA P O'Sullivan, C Griffiths 20th August 2000
Vessacks West (O.S. Ref. 377 217)
The following route is located immediately left of ‘Elizabeth’ on the ‘Rock-pool Buttress’…
Margaret Very Severe 4c #
60ft On the narrow face that forms the left edge of the buttress is a large diagonal crack/groove, climb this for a short way to gain a small shallow corner on the left. Move right at the capping overlap using a good hold to gain another small corner leading up to the easy slab above. Follow the slab to the top.
First Recorded Ascent: Barnaby Carver, Miss Helen T. Pardoe. 15th September 2006 (on-sight).
The next route is to the right of ‘Saskia’ on the ‘Rock-pool Buttress’.
Time for Tiffin? Very Severe 4c #
55ft Step across the rock-pool and climb the steep crack that is 10 feet (3 metres) to the right of ‘Saskia’. At the top of the crack move left onto a ledge and continue more easily to the top. First Recorded Ascent: Barnaby Carver, Miss Helen T. Pardoe. 3rd June 2006 (on-sight).
Penberth Cove Area
"New routes have been climbed in the cove, two on the established crag (as described in the C.C. guide) and several on the other areas around the cove. All routes described here are above VS and therefore are “new” routes; The C.C. guide declares…”a large number of climbs graded from Difficult to Very Severe have been reported here…”and”...left for the curious to rediscover.” This is a shame, because the routes will be lost to history (and claimed as new routes in the future making more work for me!! - dave)." Note: details of routes that didn't make the CC Guide can be found at http://www.bluedome.co.uk/Climbing/climjer.html.
PENBERTH WALLThis is the landward crag that is non-tidal and can be seen on the East Side of the cove.
Approach up the coastal path to the “crown of the headland” (C.C. guide), and descend right down a grassy gully and back right again to the base of the crag. Many lefts to right slanting cracks and seams, and a prominent roof can identify the crag. The routes are described from left to right.
In Solo Charge E1 5b #
Start at the left-hand side of the crag (looking in). Climbs the obvious left to right slanting crack and short groove, to the obvious off-width-finishing crack. FA Mark Edwards August 2002 (on-sight solo)
Grazing Aliens E7 6c *** #
20m The main challenge; powering over the roof in the centre of the crag. Technical, testing moves with scant protection, micro-cams are useful. Start below the centre of the roof. Climb the lower wall via a horizontal crack to the roof. Arrange small cams for protection; pull out over the roof and make hard strenuous moves to get established on the upper wall. Protection and easier climbing leads to the top via a thin crack. FA Mark Edwards (after abseil inspection) August 2002
Forty Nothing and still Smiling! HVS 4b #
20m A pleasant climb to an airy position above the central roof. Start up the short right-hand crack to join the roof at its right-hand end. Move up until it is possible to step left onto a narrow ledge. Make a move left again into a crack, and follow this line to the top. FA Mark Edwards & Harry Mason August 2002 (on-sight)
Below these routes and down at sea level is a fine clean wall with a left to right diagonal crack/seam.
WKD! E3 5b * #
15mA virtually protection-less climb with a very hard granite landing. Climb the left to right seam, and stay with the seam till its end on blind under-clings. FA Mark Edwards (on-sight solo)
Down to the left (looking out) on the “continuous 20m tower of delightful-ochre coloured rock” (C.C. guide); are a couple of new additions to the two routes described in the guide.
Headbirth E7 6c *** #
20m Breaths new life into an old 80s’ route. A hard direct start under and over the roof; tackling the main challenge “They Do at That Age” avoids. Start from a narrow ledge above a crystal clear pool. Climb to the roof and arrange small highly questionable protection in the very shallow seam. Pull hard directly over the roof and continue up the wider crack above, finish up the headwall right of the chimney, bold. FA Mark Edwards (after inspection) August 2002
Bloodbath E4 6a * #
A climb of increasing difficulty and character. 20m Start up the right-hand crack (as for They Do at That Age), and continue to a sloping ledge. Arrange protection, and swing left around the arete to make a hard move into the start of a shallow crack. Follow the crack to a large break and spike.( alternative finish: move left and finish up the chimney at E2 5c)…OR…Arrange protection, and pull up with commitment into the wide crack on the right of the arete above, and follow with difficulty to the top. FA Mark Edwards (on-sight) August 2002
On the West Side of the cove a hard climb has been found above the popular fishermen’s ledge. Follow the coastal footpath west, to a small path running along the edge of the cove. This descends onto the fisherman's ledge. The first obvious feature is…
Fat Crack E1 5a #
10m This climbs the obvious off-width-slanting crack on the arete. The grade can be reduced if extremely large cams are used! FA Mark Edwards (on-sight solo) August 2002
September Sessions E7 6c *** #
10m This extended boulder problem is up the black streak and thin over-hanging crack on the seaward face just left of East Side Story. Although short in stature, this climb packs in a lot of climbing! From the very first move make hard moves to gain the thin and very shallow crack. Finish up this with great difficulty. FA Mark Edwards (head-point solo) September 2002
Follow the fishermans path past September Sessions until a proud buttress of rock is seen forming a small headland. On the back of the butress, first seen on arrival, is a leftwards slanting groove/ramp above a slippery cleft.
Slim Shady VS 5a
30ft Make a tricky bold step across on greasy (probably wet) rock to gain better holds. Follow rampline leftwards of a small overlap to easier climbing. FA Chris Hall Solo May 2003
The Jim Beam Experience E2 6b #
30ft On the SW face at the left hand side is a short overhang above a crap landing. Make dissproportianately hard moves utilising a tiny crystal somewhere to gain a flake on the lip which is followed easily to top. Pat your self on the back for that one. FA Chris Hall Solo May 2003
Squirrel Nut Chickens HS 4c
30ft Follow rightwards slanting break to good holds and take shallow corner up flakes and cracks above.
Eat on Nun HS 4c
30ft Right of previous route is another line of flakes. Approach from below up steep wall on good holds (or easier traverse in from break). Continue up flakes to tricky move up rounded boulder on top.
St Levans Wall Area
Midway between Levans Wall (Upper Tier) and Marconi Slab is a jumble of giant boulders, containing a deep, tidal chasm (dry about 3 hours either side of low tide). This contains:
The Similar Brothers E2 5c ** #
35ft On the landward side of the chasm is a very obvious crack/groove. Climb it steeply, but with excellent protection, to the top. Sustained and excellent. Very damp on the first ascent, thus climbed in less than impeccable style! FA Rik Meek, Pete O'Sullivan 06/05/01 Note: The Similar Brothers has had a repeat ascent, confirming the grade and suggesting that it might be worth three stars
And just to the right of Marconi Slab are:
Twink Severe 4a #
30 feet Start up the groove 4 metres right of Tina Turner, moving right at half height to climb the continuation groove and rugged arete. FA Martin Dunning, Brian Hannon 3 June 2001
Dick Van Dyke Very Severe 4c #
30 feet Just right of Twink is a slab leading to some airy moves up the steep black chimney. FA Martin Dunning, Brian Hannon 3 June 2001
Tweak E1 5b #
30 feet Takes the arete with a distinctive sloping ledge at half height, 5 metres right of Dick Van Dyke. Difficult moves with dodgy gear, and a tweak on the protuberant tip of the ledge, lead to easier climbing above. FA Brian Hannon, Martin Dunning 3 June 2001
The following route is on the main area of the crag:
Whitebait E2 5c #
The tempting but short flake crack 3 metres right of Redfish is climbed to a horizontal break. Make a couple of difficult moves left before moving up and right to climb the easier slab. It is possible to climb directly above the flake crack at about 6a (not led). FA Brian Hannon, Rik Meek, Martin Dunning, Pete O'Sullivan 3 June 2001
To the right of the groove of Panos is an open slab, brown at the bottom and silver-grey higher up. Captain Chaos takes the right arete of this slab, pulling through the overhang (and is in the wrong order in the existing guide.) The following route climbs the slab.
Bandwagon E1 5b #
40 feet Start at the bottom left corner of the slab, and follow a line up and rightwards, finishing up good flake cracks. FA Andy March, Justin Ford, Bob Bennett, Gareth Palmer (27/02/05)
LAD COVE OS Ref 379 220
This first climb is between Cliff Jumpers and Mothver.
Sink or Swim Hard Severe 4c
35 feet Climb the left side of the slab starting up a steep black vein and finishing up a short crack. FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: B. Carver (solo) 1st July 2001. Climbed on-sight.
The next climb is right of 99 Lead Balloons.
Tide Line Difficult
35 feet From the ledge make a short hand-traverse right to the crack on the right side of the slab, finish up this.
FIRST RECORDED ASCENT: B. CARVER (solo) 1st July 2001. Climbed on-sight.
Cool Corner VS 4c 17 metres #
Climbs the corners just right of The Harvest. Climb easily to a good spike below the lower corner. Up this to ledges, then take the widening crack in the final corner to the top. FA Andy March, Luke Pavey, 9th March 2002
Lovely, Lovely, Lovely Direct Finish E5/6 6b #
Climbs straight up from the top of the initial flake using tiny crystals to the break, moving slightly left via a small chicken head to finish. FA Johnny Woods, Charlie, Woodburn April 2009
(p195 of South Coast part of the latest CC West Penwith guide)
Lower Tier Below the start of ‘Lucretia’ is a sloping ledge leading to the top of the lower tier buttress where the following routes can be found on a short (8-10m) wall. The base can be reached by an easy absail or a short scramble down the gully on the right (facing out). Here ledges give easy access to a number of short but enjoyable routes in the lower grades. Whilst not tidal the ledges are probably affected by a large swell at high tide.
The routes are described from left to right (facing in) and were all climbed on 28 April 2002
Leuc Left Difficult #
9 metres Obvious crack in the LH side of the wall. FA Andy Pemberton, Katharine Woods 28 April 2002
My Name is Luka Difficult #
10 metres The obvious black corner on the left of the prominent nose of rock. FA Dan Lear, Nicky Beaumont 28 April 2002
Leucky Deucky Very Difficult #
10 metres Corner crack on the right of the prominent nose. FA Dan Lear, Nicky Beaumont 28 April 2002
Leuc Right Hard Severe #
10 metres Twin cracks on the RH side of the face to a rounded finish. FA Andy Pemberton, Katharine Woods 28 April 2002
Around the arete from ‘Leuc right’ is a steep black wall:
Leucerator Severe 4a #
10 metres Climb the left-hand side of the black wall on large sharp holds. Step right onto the face to finish. FA Dan Lear, Nicky Beaumont 28 April 2002
Approx 6m further right is:
Leuk Before You Leap Very Difficult #
10 metres Nice little route, first on weird black holds, then taking the left slanting crack. FA Katharine Woods, Andy Pemberton
Right again is an inset slab:
Luke No Hands Difficult #
10 metres Climb the thin corner crack on the left hand side of the slab. Once above the corner follow the crack up the headwall. FA Dan Lear, Nicky Beaumont 28 April 2002
Bashers Harbour - The Edwards' new routes. I will try and sort these out onto one page soon!
Dai Trewallard E3 6a #
50 ft The blunt arete between the Mince Pie Problem and Cave Buttress. (1 Peg Runner). FA Goi Ashmore, Roy Thomas August 2002
Sharpy The Cereal Poisoner E2 6a #
50ft The route over the overlaps right of the HS. FA Goi Ashmore, Roy Thomas August 2002
Three new routes have been climbed to the left of “Footloose” slab and take the obvious lines centred on the arete. The routes are described from right to the left.
Spanish Knights E3 5c ** #
30m Start up the obvious vertical crack left of the “Footloose” start. Pull over onto the slab, and climb the thinner crack up the slab towards the arete. Climb the arete until it is possible to follow a crack line finish up the left side to the top. FA Mark Edwards August 2002 (on-sight)
Marble Harbour E5 6a *** #
30mTakes the arete direct and boldly. Start up the next thin line/seam to the left of “Spanish Knights”; micro protection and bold climbing. Climb the seam until its end, and swing powerfully right to better holds. Follow the thin crack line onto the slab, and climb diagonally right to the arete. Follow the arete direct to a junction with “Spanish Knights”, and finish up the left side crack line as for “Spanish Knights”. FA Mark Edwards August 2002
Magnetic Variation E2 5b ** #
30m A more direct line up the area of rock which “South without Scott” is thought to have taken. Climb boldly the sloping stepped ledges to a thin crack in a groove. Pull up and right into a steep layback crack that leads to the arete. Follow the arete on the right side, before stepping onto the left at the top to finish. FA Mark Edwards & Harry Mason August 2002 (on-sight)
The next routes are within the cave right of The Sea for Breakfast, and described from left to right:
Cave Groove Direct VS 4c * #
20mA fine open groove climb capped by an overhang. Start within the cave entrance, and climb up into the groove via a ledge. Follow the groove to the roof and pull strenuously around this to finish up a short crack to the top. FA Mark Edwards & Harry Mason August 2002 (on-sight)
London Bride E6 6b *** #
20m A brilliant and rewarding climb, tackling two contrasting halves in climbing styles. Start within the cave as for Cave Groove direct. Break out right to make a difficult move into the right-hand square-cut hanging groove. Climb the groove to the roof, and move right into another similar groove. From here pull out left onto the open face, and climb delicately and boldly to the capping roof. Pull through the roof via a hanging short groove to finish. FA Mark Edwards August 2002 (on-sight)
Marbles Arch E6 6b *** #
20m Astonishing climbing, tackling steep overhanging rock with a unique finish full of character. This climb, powers up the right wall (looking-in) of the cave and the chimney above. Start below an obvious overhanging crack-line on the right wall. Climb onto a ledge, and pull powerfully around a small roof to enter the crack. Follow the crack to a pod recess. Move up and out right to make a committing reach across the void to the opposite wall of the cave. Wild bridging turns to narrower and narrower chimney technique, to make a final move out of the lip of the cave and finish. FA Mark Edwards August 2002 (on-sight)
Figurehead E3 5c 60ft #
Essentially a direct finish through the large roof at the top of The Bowsprit - it overhangs some 12 feet in a 40 foot section!.(which has itself been substantially cleaned up). After the first overhang, where the parent route disappears left, instead scuttle rightwards to the arete, where a good no-hands rest can be achieved with some imagination. Then take the seven foot flat roof direct at its widest point, past two very pleasant protuberances at the lip, on big but flat holds. FA Martin Jones and Dan Kinnaird
Martin also points out that there is some fine Deep water soloing at Rinsey Beach (the lovely cove directly below the Trewavas car park). "Despite being relatively compact, with routes up to 30’ high and mainly in the lower grades (up to 5c, but with potential for higher/harder routes in the back of the zawn), this deserves to become a popular stopping point on the way back from the crag. All the climbing is located in one inlet, on the right of the beach (looking out) past a large flat rock shelf. Two-thirds height and upwards. Very, very nice."