North Devon and Cornwall Rock Climbing

North Devon and Cornwall

The coast stretching from Baggy Point (near Croyde) all the way South to St.Ives is home to a wide variety of crags, ranging from adventures cliffs of the utmost seriousness to short sunny slabs of a more friendly nature. Many of the areas are isolated and it's very unusual to find any of them busy.

Where to stay
As with all areas in the West Country there's a wide selection of campsites and B+B's... see javu accommodation

When to visit
The summer is the most popular, but spring and Autumn are the best if you're lucky enough tom visit during good weather (which is surprisingly frequent).

What gear to take
A Standard rack will suffice for most of the area. If you plan to visit any of the slabby crags a good selection of RP's will be very useful. A selection of pegs and a hammer could also be of use for the more obscure crags. A helmet is also a very good idea, and an ab rope, and maybe some stakes for the more obscure crags, where in-situ stakes may be in poor condition!

Guidebooks
Definitive North Devon and Cornwall (Author Brian Wilkinson and David Hope Publisher The Climbers Club 2000). A very good guide to a superb area, although at times access desciptions can be a little tricky to follow if you're new to areas.
Selected Climbs West Country Rock (Rockfax) - available to buy online from the javu shop, South West Climbs (Pat Littlejohn).

new route information
Culm Coast
Atlantic Coast

javu articles
Rubble Trouble by Clark Alston takes a look at the more adventurous side of North Coast Climbing.