Following the recent release of Shawn Boye's excellent bouldering film Tjugo på Kjuge (reviewed here and available to purchase from javu) the following provides an introduction to Sweden's premier boulder venue:
BOULDERING IN KJUGEKULL, SWEDEN
Intro | DVD | Gallery
The Kjugekull nature reserve is Sweden's largest and best known bouldering area. There are currently over 1200 problems and variations from Font 5 to 8A, 100 of which are 7B or harder. Most of the boulders are big and round and are scattered in sparse beech wood and hilly paddocks. The beautiful setting and abundance of high quality problems on superb granite glacial blocs makes bouldering at Kjugekull an extraordinary experience.
There are all sorts of problems ranging from low sit starts to highballs, delicate slabs to steep roofs, pumpy traverses and long dynos. However, the climbing is often technical and friction dependant. The best conditions generally occur in September, October, November and February, March, April. The boulders normally dry quickly after rain, especially those in the meadows.
Ivö Camping, on the island of Ivön northeast of Kjugekull, offers camping, cabins and facilities year round. The closest grocery store is in Fjälkinge, about 5 km from Kjugekull while there is a café and toilet at Kjugekull.
To get to Kjugekull drive from Malmö northeast on the E22 toward Kalmar. About 10 km past Kristianstad take the exit on the right hand side to Fjälkinge and follow the road signs to the Kjugekull nature reserve. It takes about an hour to drive to Kjugejull from Malmö and there are generally cheap flights available from London, Stansted to Malmö, Sturup.
More information about Kjugekull is available at www.kjuge.nu, the area's website, and there is also an excellent guide written by Harald Bohlin.
Don't forget to have a look at the DVD Tjugo på Kjuge review and buy it!
Thanks to Boreal for supporting the site!
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