North Moors - not a major climbing area but has some very special and wild places and also some good problems if you don't mind a walk. Given the remoteness of the majority of crags purchasing a map is a good idea.
Dartmoor Dartmoor Bouldering
back to Dartmoor Introduction
- area map
Keep your eyes open for sheep ticks (these little blighters are common on Dartmoor). Some ticks carry Lymes Disease which is not particularly good More information can be found at http://www.hpa.org.uk/infections/topics_az/zoonoses/lyme_borreliosis/menu.htm
Haytor Area (map) - has the most convenient crags on The Moor.
| Convenient and popular with the highest concentration of bouldering on the Moor. Dartmoor's answer to the Stanage Plantation or Fontainebleau's Bas Cuvier. A good spread of grades up to English 7a/ V10. Over 100 problems. | |
| Only a short walk from Bonehill Rocks, this venue didn't see much attention until '99. There are some excellent problems, the majority are 5a or above(up to 6c/ V7. Much quieter than the neighbouring Bonehill. | |
| A fine alternative to Bonehill with a good selection of problems, many of which are V1 to V3. Easily combined with a trip to Bell Tor, which is passed on the walk-in. | |
| Developed in 2000, this is a fine addition to the Moor. Short (5 mins) walk-in. A range of problems up to 6b/c (V5). Combining with a trip to Smallacombe makes for a good day out. | |
| Some very fine problems spread around the Tor although not all are obvious. Some of the routes can be soloed as extended boulder problems. Good spread of grades up to English 6c/ V8. | |
| Much of the potential for new bouldering here has now becme realised to provide an excellent selection of problems.This guide includes routes in the area. | |
| Lustleigh Sacrificial Virgin Boulder |
A small boulder with only a handful of problems. Good to combine with a trip to Manaton or Lustleigh Cleave. |
| Limited in quantity with only about a dozen problems. Some of these are, however, amongst the finest on The Moor. 5a to 6c/V9. NOW BANNED | |
| As with Manaton this venue is a little limited on quantity but not on quality. A couple of the problems here are without doubt essential Moor problems. SX729823 | |
| Although the bouldering here is spread out there are numerous quality lines and potential for some new stuff. The perfect venue for those who like there bouldering quiet and enjoy a bit of exploration. SX754783 | |
| Excellent. Most of the problems here are classics at their grade. Best suited to the harder climber with most of the better problems being 6a or above. | |
| Holwell
Tor |
Similar to Smallacombe only with less climbing and not as well developed. A good venue for finding new problems - a wire brush may be useful but use it sparingly. Home to an excellent V8 (photos)SX753776 |
| Haytor |
Despite being a premier route crag (guide here) there is not much bouldering here. Worth stopping on the way to Smallacombe/ Holwell Tor, or if you're there doing routes. Haytor Quarry holds a classic problem - Straight No Chaser V7. |
| A very pleasant area with views over Widecombe and the Webbern Valley. Combining all the tors in the vicinity provides a good range of problems. Nice and quiet. |
North Moors - not a major climbing area but has some very special and wild places and also some good problems if you don't mind a walk. Given the remoteness of the majority of crags purchasing a map is a good idea.
| Great
Links Tor |
Remote but with some potential. A few problems up V3/4 and some good traverses. The routes are also worthwhile. SX552867 |
| As with many of the venues on the North Moor this does not prove to be quite as good as appearances from the road suggest. A couple of decent harder problems and plenty of scrambling/easier bouldering fun. SX 543898 |
|
| Belstone
Area |
Not much but a few scrambly things. SX614921. Problems can be found on Belstone Ridge, Belstone Tor, Higher Tor, Winter Tor and Scarey Tor. The following crag provides routes: |
| This venue, home to a handful of worthwhile short routes, also has a bit of bouldering. SX614919 | |
Oke
Tor |
Has some good rock and problems on the west side up to V3 6a. SX6190 |
| A compact venue, but home to a supply of rather steep problems on a small roof. Good to combine with a trip to Kes Tor. SX669859 | |
| Some consider the problems here to be routes... which is fair enough given the likely consequences of falling off! The confident will enjoy a Summer evening soloing ("boldering"). SX665863 | |
| Yes Tor (619metres) |
If you want to climb the "highest" boulder problems in the south west this is the place to go! A good walk, has 3 good problems and some other bits and bobs. Walking via West Mill Tor ups the number of problems. SX581912 |
| West
Mill Tor |
Another one of those crags where the climbing is not the sole selling point - a nice day out and a good place to escape the crowds. SX587910 |
East
Mill |
A few high problems on the South End of the Tor and a bit on the North End! SX 599900 |
Fur
Tor |
Located right in the middle of the Moor, with a long walkin this place doesn't get many visitors. Apparently it holds some potential! SX587831 |
Longaford
and Littaford Tors |
Littaford is the better of the two with about 10 problems from 4c to V3 6a. Longaford has a few problems from 4c to V5 6b. SX615775 |
Crow
Tor |
Filthy but has an interesting roof. SX606787 |
| Beardown
Tors |
Holds potential but the problems are very spread. A few problems up to V3. SX 6077 |
Plymouth Side - some quality bouldering and quite varied. Also tends to be a bit quieter than the Widecombe/Haytor area
|
Leedon Tor |
A few problems and short solos SX563718 with a 5 minute walk-in. Walk on westwards for 5 minutes to: |
Ingra
Tor |
Has one worthwhile problem, Crimpanzee V2 5c - the obvious wall. Combine with a trip to Leeden Tor. SX556721 |
| Sheepstor |
A small number of good problems and some short routes for the "bolderer" to solo! |
| Superb quality bouldering. Mooted as the best bouldering venue on The Moor some might disagree. However, if it's quiet high quality stuff you're after this place can't fail to please. Problems ranging up to 6c, although to make the most of the place climbing in the 6's will help. Having said that there are plenty of easier things. Luverly! SX588688 (Cuckoo 584687) | |
| Vixen
Tor |
A smattering of problems, some of which are very good. Not really worth a trip just for bouldering but if you're in the area, or if you're there for routes... Has a classic hard traverse at V8 - left to right on the boulder left of Dockers Dilemma (also goes right to left). SX542742 |
| Great
Mis Tor |
An isolated and peaceful spot with mostly high problems of the mini-route genre. SX563769 |
| Kings
Tor Area |
Another lovely spot with a pleasant walk-in! A handful of problems and also a fine short route, Stonechat Wall E2 5b on the the highest west-facing wall. SX 557738. A couple more problems can be found down to the west at Huckern Tor SX550739. |
| Staple
Tors |
A pleasant stroll on a sunny summer's evening. Some good easier stuff but don't expect too much in the way of good bouldering. SX743760 |
| Pew
Tor |
Allegedly very good, I am yet to be convinced. Most of the problems are a tad high. As with most of the venues in this area, not really worth a long trip in it's own right but when combined with other neighbouring crags you could have a good day out. SX 532735 |
Teign Valley Area - for Dartmoor devotees.
| Westcott
Rocks |
Despite an enticing write up in the South Devon and Dartmoor guidebook this place has not yet become popular. ACCESS IS NOT PERMITTED BY THE OWNER so please stay away. |
| Heltor
Rock |
Not much apart from a reasonable traverse. Does have some routes but not really worth the trip for bouldering. |
Other Bits
| Dart Valley Crags | |
| Bench Tor | An excellent traverse of the lip of the low overhang makes this worth a look for the boulderer. There are also a few other problems through the overhang at the base of the crag and a couple other bits.. combining with Combestone Tor will up the mileage! Have a look at the photo tour! |
| Combestone Tor | Views of/from here have featured on many map covers and in books - the views of the Upper Dart Valley are stunning! Although not a major venue in it's own right it is well worth a visit if passing and can make a good day when combined with a trip to the nearby Bench Tor. |
| Mel Tor/Bel Tor | Although development here has not been well documented there are a number of good problems! Only 15 minutes drive from The Haytor area (if you know the best route!!). Excellent views. SX697730 |
| Ivybridge Viaduct | These two venues can be worth a look if you're close by, especially when the weather is poor up ont' Moor. They both provide sheltered bouldering on vertical granite-block walls. |
| Bickleigh Viaduct |
| Grades | A brief outline of the English and V (Hueco) grading systems used in the guide. |
Please note that work on this guide is ongoing and the aim is to get detailed guides for everywhere on the Moor. Please check back regularly to see how we're doing.
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This file last modified 23 February, 2008.
