Dartmoor BoulderingAn introduction: About Dartmoor Bouldering
Keep moving down for an overview of bouldering areas on the moor..
The most convenient and many of the best bouldering crags on The Moor. Can be popular with tourist at Haytor, Bonehill and Hound Tor during the summer.
Bonehill Rocks Convenient and popular with the highest concentration of bouldering on the Moor. Dartmoor's answer to the Stanage Plantation or Fontainebleau's Bas Cuvier. A good spread of grades up to English 7a/ V10. Over 100 problems. Guide
Bell Tor Only a short walk from Bonehill Rocks, this venue didn't see much attention until 1998/9. There are some excellent problems, the majority are 5a or above(up to 6c/ V7. Much quieter than the neighbouring Bonehill. Guide
Honeybag Tor A fine alternative to Bonehill with a good selection of problems, many of which are V1 to V3. Easily combined with a trip to Bell Tor, which is passed on the walk-in. Guide
Black Hill Boulders Developed in 2000, this is a fine addition to the Moor. Short (5 mins) walk-in. A range of problems up to 6b/c (V5). Combining with a trip to Smallacombe makes for a good day out. Guide
Hound Tor Some very fine problems spread around the Tor although not all are obvious. Some of the routes can be soloed as extended boulder problems. Good spread of grades up to English 6c/ V8. Guide
Hayne Down The hill top about a kilometre north of Hound Tor has a smattering of bouldering which has been developed a few times over the years. There are a few good problems, probably the most noteworthy being a V8ish found on the roof at the far southern end (it takes a line on the right of the roof). Please note that climbing on Bowerman's Nose is banned.
Lustleigh Cleave Much of the potential for new bouldering here has now becme realised to provide an excellent selection of problems.This guide includes routes in the area. Guide
The Woods An extensive area found in the woods above Bovey Tracey. Parking is limited and the access potentially sensitive. Find Shaptor and wander around. Maps on posts around the woods show the main bouldering areas - Rock Copse, Stonelands etc.
Sacrifical Virgin Boulder A small boulder in a field in Lustliegh with only a handful of problems. Good to combine with a trip to Manaton or Lustleigh Cleave. Guide
Manaton Rocks Limited in quantity with only about a dozen problems. Some of these are, however, amongst the finest on The Moor. V0 5a to V9 6c. NOW BANNED Guide
Easdon Rocks As with Manaton this venue is a little limited on quantity but not on quality. A couple of the problems here are without doubt essential Moor problems. SX729823 Guide
Smallacombe Rocks Although the bouldering here is spread out there are numerous quality lines and potential for some new stuff. The perfect venue for those who like there bouldering quiet and enjoy a bit of exploration. SX754783 Guide
Saddle Tor Excellent. Most of the problems here are classics at their grade. Best suited to the harder climber with most of the better problems being 6a or above. Guide
Holwell Tor Similar to Smallacombe only with less climbing and not as well developed. A good venue for peace and quiet. A wire brush may be useful but use it sparingly. Home to an excellent V8 (photos)SX753776
Haytor Despite being a premier route crag (guide here) there is not much bouldering here. Worth stopping on the way to Smallacombe/ Holwell Tor, or if you're there doing routes. Haytor Quarry holds a classic problem - Straight No Chaser V7.
Tunhill Rocks A very pleasant area with views over Widecombe and the Webbern Valley. Combining all the tors in the vicinity provides a good range of problems. Nice and quiet.Guide
The area to the north of the B3212 (the road that cuts throught the middle of the moor from Moretonhamstead to Yelverton) is a bleak periglaciated plateau. It has a much more remote feel than than the southern areas of the moor and although not a major climbing area it has some very special and some worthwhile bouldering. Given the remoteness of the majority of crags purchasing a map is a good idea. Most of the area is used for military training and access can be restricted - details on firing times can be found at www.dartmoor-ranges.co.uk
Great Links Tor Remote but with some potential. A few problems up V3/4 and some good traverses. The routes are also worthwhile. SX552867
Sourton Tors As with many of the venues on the North Moor this does not prove to be quite as good as appearances from the road suggest. A couple of decent harder problems and plenty of scrambling/easier bouldering fun. SX 543898 Guide
Belstone Area Not much but a few scrambly things. SX614921. Problems can be found on Belstone Ridge, Belstone Tor, Higher Tor, Winter Tor and Scarey Tor. The following crag provides routes:
Irish Man's Wall This venue, home to a handful of worthwhile short routes, also has a bit of bouldering. SX614919 Guide
Oke Tor Has some good rock and problems on the west side up to V3 6a. SX6190
Middle Tor A compact venue, but home to a supply of rather steep problems on a small roof. Good to combine with a trip to Kes Tor. SX669859 Guide
Kes Tor Some consider the problems here to be routes... which is fair enough given the likely consequences of falling off! The confident will enjoy a Summer evening soloing ("boldering"). SX665863 Guide
Yes Tor (619metres)If you want to climb the "highest" boulder problems in the south west this is the place to go! A good walk, has 3 good problems and some other bits and bobs. Walking via West Mill Tor ups the number of problems. SX581912
West Mill Tor Another one of those crags where the climbing is not the sole selling point - a nice day out and a good place to escape the crowds. SX587910
East Mill Tor A few high problems on the South End of the Tor and a bit on the North End! SX 599900
Fur Tor Located right in the middle of the Moor, with a long walkin this place doesn't get many visitors. Apparently it holds some potential! SX587831
Longaford and Littaford Tors Littaford is the better of the two with about 10 problems from 4c to V3 6a. Longaford has a few problems from 4c to V5 6b. SX615775
Crow Tor Filthy but has an interesting roof. SX606787
Beardown Tors Holds potential but the problems are very spread out. A few problems up to V3. SX 6077
Some high quality bouldering and quite varied. Also tends to be a bit quieter than the Widecombe/Haytor area.Leedon Tor A few problems and short solos SX563718 with a 5 minute walk-in. Walk on westwards for 5 minutes to:
Ingra Tor Has one worthwhile problem, Crimpanzee V2 5c - the obvious wall. Combine with a trip to Leeden Tor. SX556721
Sheepstor A small number of good problems and some short routes for the bolder boulderer to solo!
Burrator A collection of problems on the rocks just down stream (on the river left bank) of Burrator Reservoir. Grades ranges from fairly easy to about V5/6 with potential for a couple of harder lines. Less than 2 minute walk in.
Gutter Tor One problem reported here on NW side of the perched block on E side of tor. Rising left to right traverse Gutter Rat V5.
Cuckoo Rock and Combsehead Tor Superb quality bouldering - probably the best in the South West?. Quiet, high quality bouldering. Problems ranging up to 6c, although to make the most of the place climbing in the 6's will help. SX588688 (Cuckoo 584687) Guide
Vixen Tor A smattering of problems, some of which are very good. Not really worth a trip just for bouldering but if you're in the area, or if you're there for routes... Has a classic hard traverse at V8 - left to right on the boulder left of Dockers Dilemma (also goes right to left). Rumour has it that there may be a small access problem here!! SX542742
Great Mis Tor An isolated and peaceful (unless the military are firing!) spot with mostly high problems of the mini-route genre. SX563769
Kings Tor Area Another lovely spot with a pleasant walk-in! A handful of problems and also a fine short route, Stonechat Wall E2 5b on the the highest west-facing wall. SX 557738. A couple more problems can be found down to the west at Huckern Tor SX550739.
Staple Tors A pleasant stroll on a sunny summer's evening. Some good easier stuff but don't expect too much in the way of good bouldering. SX743760
Pew Tor Allegedly very good, I am yet to be convinced! Most of the problems are a tad high. As with most of the venues in this area, not really worth a long trip in it's own right but when combined with other neighbouring crags you could have a good day out. SX 532735
Teign Valley Area For Dartmoor devotees.
Westcott Rocks A handful of interesting features nicely hidden away in the woods. Despite an enticing write up in the South Devon and Dartmoor guidebook this place has not yet become popular. ACCESS IS NOT PERMITTED BY THE OWNER.
Heltor Rock Not much apart from a reasonable traverse. Does have some routes but not really worth the trip for bouldering.
Dart Valley Crags A stunning valley home to one of the best grade 4 rivers in the country... there's not a huge amount of bouldering but it's well worth a look, particularly on hot summer days when the river provides refeshing swimming.
Bench Tor An excellent traverse of the lip of the low overhang makes this worth a look for the boulderer. There are also a few other problems through the overhang at the base of the crag and a couple other bits.. combining with Combestone Tor will up the mileage! Have a look at the photo tour!
Combestone Tor Views of/from here have featured on many map covers and in books - the views of the Upper Dart Valley are stunning! Although not a major venue in it's own right it is well worth a visit if passing and can make a good day when combined with a trip to the nearby Bench Tor.
Mel Tor/ Bel Tor Although development here has not been well documented there are a number of good problems! Only 15 minutes drive from The Haytor area (if you know the best route!!). Excellent views. SX697730
Grades A brief outline of the English and V (Hueco) grading systems used in the guide.
Please note that work on this guide is ongoing and the aim is to get detailed guides for everywhere on the Moor. Please check back regularly to see how we're doing.
Thanks to Boreal for supporting the site!
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